Jump to content
BC Boards

MaggieDog

Registered Users
  • Content Count

    2,013
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by MaggieDog

  1. The yahoo group Agbeh could help...its a very serious goup, but very helpful esp for people without many options in their area.
  2. On a hunch I looked at the ingredients in Innova Evo -- it looks like you could prob use it while you were getting the raw diet set up and during traveling since it does have potatos and carrots (BL on your list) but no other allergy inducing ingredients. I would hate to feel rushed in setting up a raw diet and it's always good to have a backup food for traveling, etc. where raw may be difficult to use. For allergies, you may want to look into supplementing with Nettle - it's supposed to help with itching, etc.
  3. Maggie is due for vaccines this month so this subject is definitely quite interesting to me. Here's my vet's protocol for adult dogs (Maggie is 6 so I don't know about pup stuff): DHPP (no lepto) every three years Rabies every three years as required by law Bordatella every year if necessary for boarding, etc. My parents' epileptic dog only gets rabies every three years, and we might be dropping it all together and having the vet sign a waiver for it given her seizure free state (I think about 2 years now!!) and her age (10 yo tomorrow).
  4. I would feed raw or homecooked, but I can't stand dealing w/ raw meat for myself let alone for the dog. lol Maggie is eating Innova Evo right now and she's doing well - more energy (yea I'm actually happy about that), seems less itchy, nice coat, small poops, etc. It does have a high protien level due to the lack of grains in it, but so far so good on the energy and aggression front (I've heard hi protein may exacerbate aggression issues in some dogs). Someone mentioned earlier that hi protein can cause kidney problems and I have to wonder where they got that...don't wolves and dogs in primitive areas live on hi protein diets w/o much problem? Anyway that's my setup; my parents feed their two dogs, one with epilepsy, Nutro Natural Choice Lamb and Rice w/ safflower oil, oatmeal, and vitamin E added.
  5. 1. I know this has been covered a while ago, but I couldn't find the post so...where's a good place to find whistles for a beginner to play with? My herding instructor uses the plastic ones, but I know there's wide opinion on the right 'type' to start on so I need help w/ that as well. 2. How do you all determine if a dog might work well on cattle? Since herding work is pretty new to Maggie and I, I doubt this will ever be a possibility, but since Maggie may have some ACD in her blood and seems to enjoy gripping sheep a bit more than she should, I thought it would be a good thing to inquire about. Along the same line: where might I find cow dog resources (like trainers, basics, etc.)? Thanks in advance!
  6. Reading thru some of the posts here has brought up some questions. For those who haven't seen my other posts, my BC Maggie was just started on sheep a few weeks ago and has had 3 lessons so far. We're working with an all breed AKC trainer, but will most likely be switching to a handler who runs BCs in non AKC trials. So far Maggie has a pretty good fetch and is just starting on baby outruns. She can flank decently from either direction, though she prefers going to her left. She is still pretty barky and does grip when she first gets onto the field, but we're working on that. I saw a few flickers of eye at our last lesson. Its funny to see her work compared to the shelties who are also working with our current trainer - she's just slightly behind a dog that's been training for about 2 *years*!! Now I understand why instinct and breeding for working rather than show is soooo important; the dog that's been training for so long had almost no instinct when they started and had to spend several months just playing with sheep to get anything to work with. I'd love to eventually trial Maggie, but even if I don't I still want to teach her the best I can. Here are my questions: I've heard about whistles; when should I start thinking about using one? My current trainer only uses verbal commands/directions, but I'm finding it hard to use and prefer a clearer, faster cue. If you use whistles to direct your dog, does it have to be using an actual whistle you put in your mouth or can it just be a normal whistle (w/o an extra piece of equipment, just your lips)? Right now Maggie's release to sheep is a two tone whistle and that's working so much better than using another word. How do you get your dogs to work out from the stock? Maggie likes being up close and personal and thus puts too much pressure on the sheep and I end up getting stepped on. Right now I use a rake to control her movements w/ an occasional toss near her to tell her to back off, but it seems to be too much of a correction as she is very tuned into me and very soft I think. Any books to suggest? I'd like to get some good background info on herding training and some details of the actual process to supplement my weekly lessons. Thanks.
  7. I just started herding w/ Maggie (3 lessons so far)...she's doing well but I've also discovered the same things. I'm a clicker trainer as well and of course don't use it when we're with the sheep. Right now I use a rake to keep Maggie off the sheep and thus correct her using motions with the rake or, when she's really too close to the stock, throw it right next to her (not to hit, just to startle). The only problem I'm having with this technique is that while the correction seems to work immediately, the long lasting impression it leaves on Maggie seems overly negative. My trainer doesn't seem concerned, but I've noticed Maggie taking off across the field to check out other things rather than working the stock more often and I wonder if it's a reaction to too much pressure from the rake and my handling? Any thoughts there?
  8. We have three permanent dogs between my parents and I; 6 dogs have been temporary fosters so I won't include them. Oreo (Cattle Dog mix): 9 y/o, from a litter of pups born to a stray who showed up in someone's barn very pregnant - our vet told my parents about the litter and I got to pick Oreo out at 4 weeks; she came home w/ us at 7 weeks. Maggie Mae (Border Collie): 5 y/o, adopted from local shelter at 11 mo the day she was due to be PTS because she was going 'kennel crazy'; I'm her 4th and final owner. She's turned into a good agility dog, beginning herder, and great demo dog from her beginnings as a severely undersocialized pup. Gryffin (Rottie mix): 2 y/o, originally a temporary foster, but he caught my parents' hearts and so he was adopted from the same shelter where we adopted Maggie.
  9. Awesome and good to hear....I'm so used to dog sports that not having to have a dog registered in some manner is foreign. Guess I should get used to it since I'm already well on my way to being addicted to herding lol.
  10. I'm probably waaay ahead of myself right now, but I'll ask my question anyway. My BC is a shelter dog. We just started herding this weekend and since she is showing some ability (see my post in the General area) we'll be training this winter. Right now this is just for fun, but if in the future I want to trial I was wondering what the registration requirements are. I noticed that ABCA has a registration by merit which is quite detailed and extensive, but seems to be the only way to register a dog of unknown pedigree. Do you have to be registered to trial? If so, do all organizations that hold trials require this or not? If only some require registration, which ones do not? Is there another registry that allows dogs of unknown parentage? Thanks in advance.
  11. Don't be surprised if you get some pretty strong opinions on this board - everyone comes from a different perspective and many of us have seen what happens when people who aren't ready to breed do. That said it is good you're coming here for advice rather than just going it alone if you are convinced you want to breed. Why and when are you planning on breeding your girl? Does she have health clearances (hip xrays, etc.) ? Does she work? Have you done any research? Do you have a mentor who can help you? Are you aware that you could lose you girl during her pregnancy/whelping? If you breed, will you take pups back years after you sold them if their owners can't keep them? How will you screen possible puppy owners? These are all questions that need to be answered so everyone can give you the best advice/suggestions possible. Personally, it would take a lot for me to be convinced that you should breed your girl. I've volunteered at a shelter for 6 years and have seen plenty of pure BCs come in for just being a normal BC - their owners weren't properly screened and didn't know what a BC needs and the breeder wasn't responsible enough to take them back. A lot of these dogs had behavior problems and some had health problems that would've been prevented if their parents had been screened. Hopefully you can see why this makes me hesitate to help someone who may or may not know what is really involved in breeding.
  12. I too have a BC with variable energy lol. She has adapted well to two 1/2 mile walks a day plus rollerblading and playing in the house from being out in a huge yard with squirrels to chase and another dog to play with. When home alone while I'm in class she is entertained by a treat ball and a Kong or Greenie. My roommate is home some of the day, but doesn't walk or exercise Maggie. Thursdays are agility night and weekends are for hiking, visits to dog friendly stores, and sometimes agility trials. Maggie is a rescue and is now 5 yo...she's settled down a little from when I adopted her at 11 mo but she can still be a a ball of energy when she wants. I also second the idea that BC owners have different definitions of what is acceptable when it comes to time spent w/ the dog. I got into an 'interesting' discussion with a guy in one of my classes that shows Havanese (small, longhaired dogs for those who don't know) in conformation - he doesn't understand why we should breed for ability rather than 'looks' and how anyone can have a BC as a 'non working' pet. He is of the mindset that to exist as a breed BCs should be bred to be normal pets. One of the things he said was 'who wants a dog that needs to have something to do 24/7' and I replied '*I* do!' lol. He thinks the time I spend w/ my girl is excessive and my amount isn't even close to some people here! Goes to show how different people can see things I guess.
  13. I remember reading about a dog born w/o feet - his owners had prosthetic feet made for him so he didn't rub the stumps raw. Apparently he's doing quite well w/ his new feet. Something to consider if the foot is amputated since then he wouldn't be putting any more weight on the other hip.
  14. Maggie is often affectionately referred to as: goofball vicious guard dog (she sounds ferocious when the doorbell rings or someone knocks) crazy dog houdini sneak Those who meet Maggie usually remark that she's: really smart well trained beautiful gorgeous fast sweet hilarious
  15. There is some concern about the use of ivermectin in herding breeds. Heartguard and Iverheart contain ivermectin. I've used Interceptor with Maggie since I got her and she's had no problems. My cattle dog X had a reaction to Heartguard (increased seizure activity; she's epileptic), but once we switched to Interceptor, she's been fine.
  16. re: rollerblading w/ a GL: I only used the GL until I was sure Maggie wouldn't pull me off the trail (about 15 mins) for the reasons mentioned above. I figured having her run off after a squirrel would be more dangerous than the possibility of me falling. I would love to get her a harness to run in, but I have an incredibly hard time finding one that won't rub Maggie when she runs. A regular walking harness rubs and so she refuses to go faster than a slow trot, and a sledding harness is too loose so she pulls out/gets tangled if I stop or she's not pulling (plus i don't want her to pull). GL's, like any other piece of equipment, should be used carefully.
  17. Since I don't have an agility course of my own I thought I'd see what people do to keep their dog in peak condition during the off-season and when they don't have a good place for the dog to run. I'm currently rollerblading w/ Maggie running alongside and I think it's great. Any other ideas?
  18. I've used the GL on about 10 different dogs (at a local animal shelter) as well as my own BC. With the shelter dogs I had to just put it on and ask them to 'get over it' quickly so that we could start working on manners asap. I would just put it on and every time they went to paw at it I would gently lift their head up w/ the lead so they couldn't - every dog eventually gave up fighting it and worked with me happily while wearing his/her GL. It worked very nicely on dogs from a Jack Russell mix to two Saint Bernards! With my dog, I introduced the GL gradually. I clicked and treated for approaching it, sticking her nose in the loop, wearing it for 1 sec, then 3 sec, and so on. I would also put it on while she ate so she associated it w/ 'good things for dogs'. Eventually I put it on her for her walks and it worked well w/ no resistance on her part. I haven't had any problems w/ the GL. I've even used it while rollerblading with Maggie and it's been fine, although I think it might restrict panting just a bit. I wonder if the panting is a stress reaction; do you only use the GL in stressful situations? Maggie used to get stressed w/ her GL because I only used it in areas where we might have problems w/ other dogs (she doesn't like rude dogs or Goldens) - once I started having her wear it while she did fun things, she was much happier. Hope this helps.
  19. I had the same problem with Maggie...she was clean but way too slow when running a course. Now she's one of the fastest dogs in class!!!!!! It is possible to add speed. Here's what worked for us: get really happy before, during, and after your run, work on increasing distance by using targets and teaching a 'go out' word, find something besides praise that the dog will work for - Maggie and I worked on building toy drive w/ a 'jackpot toy' and now she'll run for it since it holds yummy treats - the post on the General board titled 'treats' should give you some ideas for food rewards, and above all else HAVE FUN!!!! It sounds like you're trying to keep from using corrections, that's very good. Our instructor actually outlawed the use of the word 'no' or any correction on the course and I noticed a big improvement in Maggie's work. Hope this helps...good luck w/ your pup - you can do it!
  20. INU, I just went to Lowe's (home improvement store) and bought a cheap light switch and wall plate and screwed them together to start. It cost a total of about $1.50. I clicker train, so I clicked for her approaching the switch, then nosing it, then nosing up, then flipping it up. Eventually the sound it makes when the switch is flipped becomes the 'click'. I have one switch in my house at the bottom of the stairs that Maggie can reach with her nose - she could reach more if she used her feet, but I didn't want to risk scratching the walls, so she just works with the low switch. It works pretty well though because that's the switch I usually need turned on or off when my hands are full. Hope this helped.
  21. My Maggie and I have been having the same problem, so we started working on helpful tasks around the house. Here's what we've done so far (in addition to standard tricks): - turn lights on - unload the dryer - pick up anything I point to - carry things upstairs - close doors - guide me to the stairs/door when the lights are out (happened by accident when the power went out while I was in the basement) A few other things I want to teach her are: - get a soda from the fridge (though I'm not sure I want her learning how to open the fridge lol) - turn lights *off* - alert to the oven timer (run to me when it goes off) - weave between my legs when we're walking - walk on hind legs - find a toy by name - sneeze on cue Tricks Maggie knows that everyone thinks are cute: - "wave" - I just taught her high five, then gradually removed my hand until she was batting at air which looks like a wave - "whisper" - moves her mouth but w/o sound - "splat" - falls over on side, kinda like relax or dead dog, great for calming her down Have fun!
  22. I thought I'd add my two cents: My Maggie is 19.5" at the shoulder and weighs around 32 or 33 lbs - she is at what I consider ideal for her build. I purposely keep my dog on the light end of normal because she runs agility and the less weight her joints must carry, the better. I constantly monitor her weight by using the rib check method described by others and adjust her food intake accordingly. I feed her 1 to 1.5 cups of Eagle Pack Holistic split into two meals. If I use a lot of treats I'll adjust how much she's fed to accomodate the extra calories. If she's bugging me about being hungry (i.e. getting the dog treats off the top shelf of my desk and eating them while I'm gone - lol) I'll give some carrots to fill her up but not add extra calories.
  23. Have you actually trained your pup to like the crate? Some people just put a pup in a crate and expect things to go smoothly - sometimes this works and sometimes it doesn't. If you haven't trained your pup to like the crate, here's how I do it with some of my foster dogs/pups: 1. feed dog in the crate (start w/ door open and then gradually leave it closed for longer and longer periods 2. periodically during the day toss yummy treats - like cheese or liver pieces - in the back of the crate and show the pup where they are 3. Confine dog/pup in an exercise pen or another room when you can't watch him until the dog/pup is comfortable in the crate. 4. Take small steps - going fast can actually slow you down because the positive association with the crate isn't quite as strong. Another way to get a dog to like the crate while still using it for confinement is to give the dog/pup a special treat or toy (like a stuffed Kong) only when he/she is in the crate. I've found this works quite well, but it's harder with a little pup since they'll need to go out to potty soon after because of the additional food. Hope this helps.
  24. Atlantis sounds kinda like my Maggie...today we had some thunder and she did her usual 'let's bark at it and make it go away!' and of course it eventually listened to her! Mags used to be afraid of storms...hiding under things usually, but all of a sudden she started giving thunder what for and has been happy to ensure that the thunder leaves when it should - lol.
  25. Wow, this discussion is pretty interesting. I love the different perspectives. Anyway, I thought I'd mention that I actually fade out the treat in the click=treat equation once the dog is performing the behavior I want reliably. Many people, my agility instructor included, don't think it's good to do that, but it has worked very well for my dog and I. In agility for example: we're working on contacts, but Maggie understands them pretty well so if she hits them she gets a click (or a 'yes') but no treat. Her treat will come after we finish the course, and probably after a few more clicks. Yes, I still reward her, although much of the time it's with lots of verbal praise rather than food or toys. In a way, she is working for the click alone and the praise 'jackpot' from me (praise from others doesn't work BTW) at the end of the run.
×
×
  • Create New...