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Everything posted by MaggieDog

  1. I've not seen any problems crop up from herding experiences in my agility dogs. If anything I think it's another great way to truly proof basic cues like "down".
  2. Perhaps the puppy food is too rich? If they were on a crappy diet before they came into rescue, it's a possibility - my current foster was on pedigree for 2 months prior to coming into my house and it took a good 3-4 weeks for his poops to completely normalize on the high quality foods I feed. Perhaps try an all life stages food with limited ingredients like CA Natural, Canidae, etc..
  3. And this is why I went with PetPlan - no limits per event, just per year. No actual use yet, but the fine print looked ok. Hope it all gets straightened out soon!
  4. This looks a LOT like the small spot Maggie has on her wrist that my vet also said is benign. Like you, I worry about anything out of place with my pets, but decided to trust the vet on this one. I do periodically check if for changes and it's been the same for the last year or so, so I'm feeling ok about it. It's hard, about the same size as Jazzy's, but gray, likely because Maggie's skin is heavily pigmented there. It has a kind of calloused feel. (I did happen to get a second opinion on it a few months back because I took Maggie to work for something else and happened to ask our shelter vet about it then; she concurred with our regular vet.)
  5. Great big good vibes headed your way - I can't wait to hear how it goes!
  6. I remember all the trials you've been through with your boy and so am doubly happy for you. I'm soooo glad to know you've finally found a winning combination. I'll keep your protocol in mind for any of my clients with dogs with major vet issues - thank you for posting it!
  7. Just an aside to pansmom - I'm thrilled to hear you're going to see Dr. Haug! She is an awesome vet behaviorist - she's very well respected in the field. I'm sure she'll be of enormous assistance!
  8. I like how you think Kristine!! It would be rather amusing if the PAL program lost momentum because of the mixed breed program *and* they ended up with the dreaded mixing of mixes and purebreds.
  9. The only caution I would have is that you likely should look at getting dogs a bit further apart in age for a couple reasons: 1. Two of the same gender *and* same age are more likely to have issues sorting out where they fit in the family. 2. They will both age at the same pace and in the end you will have two senior dogs and their related costs and loss. I generally try to get dogs at least 2 years apart in age and/or different gender. My current household is a 10yo female, a 2yo female, and a 6mo male. If we keep Laddy, we won't be getting another dog until a spot opens up, so likely a number of years.
  10. To add to my original reply, all my animals eat in the same vicinity but are expected to stay in their designated spots while eating and not bug anyone else - this applies for all three dogs *and* the cat. Our set up is the following: - Dogs assemble while I make their food bowls up. Much of the time I ask for sit or down stays from all of them while this is happening (the 6mo pup is required to do a stay at all times currently). The cat generally steers clear of this prep work. - On cue, all dogs will run to their appointed spots (crates in my home office in their case); if the cat is roaming at that time he generally will follow them into the room. - I feed in order of seniority for the dogs, so Mags gets her bowl first, then Z, then I lift Laddy into his crate since it's stacked on Maggie's and give him his treatball of food. All dogs are taught never to approach the others while they are at their bowls. - The cat is fed last and then kenneled while he eats so the dogs don't push him out of the way to get to his kibble. Initially the cat would try to horn in on the dogs' food, but each time a dog growled at him, I removed him from the situation (no words, just calm removal) and he quickly learned that horning in = removal and confinement in his kennel, so he no longer approaches dogs eating. All my animals are fine with me removing food and toys from them and we've never had any issue with this, though Laddy does like a good game of keep away still lol.
  11. It should be interesting to see if what you've noticed about Pan's growling will continue to hold true or if the novelty of your response will fade in time and the behavior will return. I'd be keeping an eye on what she does after she stops growling, though - if she's still super tense and her body language still appears "guardy" I'd be wary of what you're seeing as it may indicate that she's just supressing the growl (an important warning cue for you and others) vs. actually altering the whole behavior chain. As to the resource guarding issue, IME some dogs will guard food and not chewies and vice versa. Some guard both. Each dog has their preferences for chewies - we use GoodLife meal bones for evaluating resource guarding at the humane society and I see much more interest in them than did when we were using rawhide. That being said, I've had good success using trading games with student dogs to prevent resource guarding; the book "Mine!" has a great protocol for rehabbing resource guarders using a trading scheme.
  12. I doubt it will affect flyball folks unless AKC jumps into that arena in the future. (whispers) lucky ducks! I got into a rather heated discussion about this with a fellow agility classmate on Thursday. She was trying to say this new mixed breed class is the same as USDAA separating out Performance and Championship and didn't seem to quite get the major difference: in USDAA you **choose** to be in either class. Bah HUMBUG!
  13. I'd avoid the RD if you can stick to a tight diet for him; if that doesn't work then consider the RD. Whenever I've had a dog that needed to lose weight, I made sure I was feeding to ideal weight vs. current (using the bag as a rough guideline to start), used kibble from the daily ration for training treats, and added green beans (frozen) or canned pumpkin to the food if the animal seemed over hungry. The above worked to get my parents' dog, Oreo, from 78lbs to 56lbs! We also tried a diet food, but now I think that's a lot of hype and too many carbs and fillers, so all other weight loss needs went with the above plan and regular dog food. You could probably try a senior version of your current food if you want to cut calories but not feed any less. FYI here are the RD ingredients. There is a ton of filler stuff in there - the cellulose jumps out at me because it's indigestible by dogs so you're paying for something with limited nutritional benefit. At least with veggies they have some nutrition in addition to the fiber. I'd be asking your vet why she suggests this food instead of reducing current rations and adding veggies. Ground Whole Grain Corn, Corn Gluten Meal, Chicken By-Product Meal, Powdered Cellulose 10.4% (source of fiber), Soybean Mill Run, Soybean Meal, Chicken Liver Flavor, Dried Beet Pulp, Soybean Oil, Iron Oxide, DL-Methionine, L-Lysine, Potassium Chloride, Vitamin E Supplement, vitamins (L-Ascorbyl-2-Polyphosphate (source of vitamin C), Vitamin E Supplement, Niacin, Thiamine Mononitrate, Vitamin A Supplement, Calcium Pantothenate, Biotin, Vitamin B12 Supplement, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Riboflavin, Folic Acid, Vitamin D3 Supplement), Choline Chloride, Taurine, minerals (Manganese Sulfate, Ferrous Sulfate, Zinc Oxide, Copper Sulfate, Calcium Iodate, Sodium Selenite), L-Carnitine, preserved with Mixed Tocopherols & Citric Acid, Beta-Carotene, Rosemary Extract.
  14. I've changed dogs names even after they've been used to me calling them by another for months (fosters turned adopted dogs lol). I generally just go cold turkey with the new name and reward any attention they give me after I say their name. Usually they start to respond to the new name very quickly. IMO it's always a good idea to change a dog's name when it's a name associated with less than stellar environments, so I'd def change names on shelter or stray pups but would consider keeping a name given by a foster parent if I liked it.
  15. You might want to contact the Animal Behavior Clinic at Purdue University - I believe one of the main vets at the clinic specializes in compulsive disorders so they might have more resources.
  16. I think I paid $38 or $40 for the big bag last time I bought it - I think it may become my base food on the dogs' rotational diet.
  17. Aussie - If I were you I'd also be looking into a good insulated doghouse for Bonnie - a good dog house will retain heat and make her own body mechanisms for keeping her warm more efficient. There are also special plastic disks that can be heated in the microwave (heat lasts up to 8 hours) you might want to look into for those very cold nights.
  18. Yea it's not really cold to me either (grew up in Indiana winters), but she *is* shivering due to cold - it looks VERY different than her excitement shivers. Cold shivers are all over, excitement shivers are often restricted to ears and legs for her lol. And of course sitting stationary is very different than moving - 40 is not shivering weather when she's working, but before and after our turns she's completely stationary in the car and that's when you'll see the issue. (I figured no one was making fun, but I didn't want people to dismiss the OP's question either.)
  19. Ouchies! I wonder if fining a place for him to swim might also be helpful. That plus physical therapy, and supplements would certainly be a complete treatment plan! Have you tried DGP or any of the other stuff WDJ has discussed?
  20. Coats can be very helpful in certain circumstances and I think we owe the OP the benefit of the doubt. I use a coat on my SAR dog in training when she has to sit in her crate for hours during practice in temps below about 40 degrees, otherwise she'll shiver. Ziva's measurement is about 40cm to her tail base, but I generally prefer coats a bit shorter than that, so her ideal would be around 30-35cm. Z is 15.75" at the shoulder and 24.4lbs. Maggie's full measurement is 57cm to tail base and I'd prefer a coat about 50cm long. She is 18.75" at the shoulder and 32lbs.
  21. I'd recommend a martingale collar for walks in addition to an ID collar as properly adjusted they are virtually escape-proof and it's nice to have that added security with a new dog. DAP is a good idea. Do you have any cats? If so a similar product is available to help them with the stress of the new addition as well. Towels and shampoo are good to have on hand just in case. Do you have a vet lined up? If not, now would be the time to be interviewing them and any other animal related service providers you'll be using (daycare, dog walker, kennel, groomer, trainers, etc.). Same with info on local E-clinics.
  22. Hey you can always drive up to Spartanburg, SC - we're having a heartworm clinic on the 28th and it's $10 per dog and includes a brief physical. I know around here it's state law that dogs must have an annual heartworm test before prescribing prevention even if they've been on it continuously.
  23. Our humane society will s/n any animal over 2lbs and 8 weeks. Wee do thousands of adoptions every year and many are of pups and kittens. Our vet does a great job and we've not heard of any problems from adopters. For dogs going to high performance homes I might be a little more cautious, but for pets the benefits outweigh the potential risks, especially when you consider that compliance w/ s/n contracts, even those including a deposit toward surgery, is around **30%**.
  24. At least at the shelter we consider half grown in canines to be a dog between 5 and 6 months, never 7 months.
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