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Everything posted by ChantalB

  1. Sit Down Stand Stay Proofing those behaviours Recall work Its yer choice and other impulse control games Circle work Body awareness: back up, sit pretty (take it slow), targeting, picking up objects, 2o2o, give paw, give back paw, side paws, 4 feet in an ever smaller box, slamming cupboards (helps with teeter), cross your feet, are you shy and so so so So many more. Circling around a standard/pole Meet many many many new people. When shots are done, have positive experiences with puppy friendly, well mannered dogs. Crate work. Drive into crate, only release when told, stay in crate even when door opens. Relax in crate in many different and new environments. Puppy jump work (check put susan salo) And there is much much more to do
  2. So great to hear! Keep the updates (and pics) coming! So adorable
  3. She doesn't need off leash time if you're willing to hike her, and adequately exercise her. Walks will not do. One day she can eventually be off leash with lots of training but in the meantime she's fine. Do you have a fenced yard? I used to use baseball diamonds too. Lots if recall training! Crate training will help with the house training. Treat her like you would a pup. Barking you are right, will probably be a big challenge, as hard as it is ignoring and not giving any attention (which would reinforce the behaviour) should do the trick. Do this from the first minute, so she knows barking has no effect on you. I would enroll in a positive science based obedience class right away. Do yor homework and find a great trainer, start with a private lesson to work out a plan/ the kinks, until you are ready for group class. You could I guess argue for time settling in, which is why I suggest some private training before the group class. And congrats on the new addition and good for you for taking her own! Best of luck!!
  4. Birthday/Christmas/etc present? Hah my gifts were always in advance dog/horse related IOU presents when I was younger, lol! I HIGHLY recommend silvia trkman puppy then foundation, then etc etc. So addicted to them already. Great foundation for any dog and it really focuses on speed and drive, as well as enthusiasm for handler/the game. Fun is #1!
  5. Sounds like they want a belly rub
  6. Agreed! It's not anger if we're disagreeing, or supplying our own opinion! Healthy discussion !
  7. It's late but my advice is to never slow down your dog. Work through the speed and drive. I would do a lot of circle work exclusively in your right side for a few weeks, I wouldn't even do any left sided heeling at all for awhile. After she's really good at the right, balance it out between the two. Always work on both left and right, but a tiny bit more right. Serps I like the / \ / \ / \ / method . Those are jumps and you straighten them slowly to a line. I think that's the way you do it. Table should be auto down. Where do you trial? I know AAC in Canada just changed (or voted to) the table rule. It's now 4 paw, or will be soon. No big advice on the table as mine sucks at it, he has a hard time collecting and even when e collect and jumps into a full down he skids off of it. So until we get to masters I put him in a down right after the obstacle before the table and jog to it. (Breaking my slow rule, but it's causing shoulder issues and health comes first before training.) haven't yet tried that it trial setting, but he tends to before the same no matter where we are anyhow. Verbals is just practice practice practice. Run courses without your dog, invision the course in your head and say all the words and visualize the dog running and you handling. Then actually run the course dogless. I also recommend running with a friend being your "dog" who doesn't know the course (no numbers) and only performs the way you handle. Weaves, I like the 2x2 method for entrances. Practice all angles, with you both on the left and right, from far away to close away from her, sending to the weaves, lead out to weaves, you building up to slowly turning away and going to other direction (turn shoulders at at first build from there). Walk with her, run with her, run like a good, throw toys. Basically proof the crap out if them, to cent the understanding that the weaves are the same thing every time no matter what the handler is doing, where she is going or where you are coming from. I also like the channel method for refining speed and style. Contacts are a preference thing. I like running contacts because A) 2o2o caused issues health wise in Jude. He had a fast stopped contact and even though I thought him to shift to his rear, it didn't help (aframe issues). I find stopping and releasing to much work for me as a handler , based in personal style. I like sending a dog to an obstacle and focusing on the next, I always forgot my release word and I wasn't disciplined enough to keep the stopped criteria. The trick to a BC speed I think is obstacle independence and commitment. Train your dog to commit to an obstacle once cued no matter what you are doing, and teach them how to independently do it without rallying on you to babysit. Once you got that (wayyyy easier said than done lol), you can then not worry and handling/verbals get much easier. Running my baby dog is much easier than my 4 year old because he doesn't have the bad habits the oldest had by being my first dog. Very hard to untrain things. DVDs depend on your handling style. But I really really like Silvia Trkman. Her foundations DVD (and online courses) are a wealth of knowledge. She also has a trick training for speed and conditioning video, which would help your dog develop the strength needed to turn at a high speed. It's not just about the training, but you have to teach them to master their bodies as well. have fun!
  8. Oh and I've never once heard her training discussed with religion?!?!?! Lol the BAT method is quickly becoming a standard for reactive dogs. It's none confrontational, keeps the dog below treahold I have nothing but awesome things to say on BAT (Grisha's method) and a heap of other sports/pet people would agree. Words are words. Wow they cause a lot of trouble. So contextual with so many hidden and different meanings. My dogs name is Jude. Judas when I'm irritated. Jew when I'm calling him. It's just wordplay, but I'm sure there are a 100 bad things that could be said on those names I've chosen. I'm a none judgemental, very relaxed and compassionate person. So I just tell people to get over it. Stop making issues where there are none to be made. Get to know something before you let a word drive you. Things can be so complicated
  9. To the OP, you are training a future sports dog, therefore advice from someone without sports knowledge may not be the best. I don't know any thing on herding, therefore I leave that to the experts like Donald here. Sports I do know, agility being my main area. I 100% stand by my advice with those key words. While I couldn't give you trainer specific advice (although Grisha is famous in pet/sports training world and I myself am very good friends with a trainer who teaches her curriculum and is doing amazing work with reactive dogs, and rescue rejects.) those key words, in conjunction with common sense, attending a trial class/watching the instructor teach, should help you on your way with finding a good foundation for your future SPORTS dog. Look at a potential instructors dogs, but not only that ,her students and their dogs. How are they liking her training style, how are their dogs doing in the ring? Some instructors are blunt, critical and harsh. Myself I like that, I pay money for lessons, not for sugar coating. Others like a more positive environment with much more compliments than critical errors being pointed out. It all depends what you personally like. Are the dogs relatively stress free, do they feel safe and those the curriculum allow for teams to move at their own pace without feeling rushed. At the end of the day, foundations are key. Avoid classes that have you on equipment within the first couple sessions if you at all interested in a competitive future, even recreational competitons. While it may be fun, there are heaps of work to be doing before this (self control, strength training and conditioning, trick training to prosper the dogs ability to learn, work ethic 'work', relationship and team building exercises, DRIVE work...yes even BC need to work on drive, etc) which will not only help with future success , but allow the game to be played with less frustrations and more safety for you and your dog. Your BC as a STEREOTYPE may be motion sensitive, reactive and a dweeb He will catch the agility bug very quickly and love the game. So it's essential to have A LOT of impulse control worked into the early years right away. The most important thing even. They will pick up agility quick, so don't worry about how fast/slow you are progressing, just put a lot of work in the relationship and bond, so you can overcome future hardships, by making yourself and in turn the game the best thing out there versus the mountains of distractions that come with the sport. As agility is a game, IMO the best classes teach all these early (and future) lessons in the context of small games that are super fun and build on each other. Enjoy!
  10. Grisha steward invented BAT training, (I think invented?) . I would 100% recommend that place then. I had a quick look, the programs seem amazing.
  11. No specific recommendations, but search for key words like clicker, positive, fun, games, self control, socilization, confidence. Puppy start right programs (Karen prior curriculum I think?) Are really good, as the obedience start right. And yes, do not expect anywhere near the level you get of wok at home as in training, my dog as a up went into classes knowing everything pre taught, school was for stimulus control work.
  12. Oh! And like I knew I was getting a super athletic, smart awesome dog... But you just don't realize it until you live with and love one that they are so unique, so amazing, just so awe inspiring how you attach to them. My 4 year old who've I've had since he was 8 weeks, got him at 20 years old, he's just my world. I never expected that. I don't mean it in a stupid he is my "furbaby/furkid", he's not my surrogate child or anything. He's just my most epic best friend, a constant companion that I don't tire of (okay sometimes he's a brat). You don't realize the bond with them till you have your own. Indescribable. I never expected such a life changing series of feelings and awesomeness. I've had dogs my whole life, great amazing dogs I love and have loved with my whole heart. Ones that I just had an amazing friendship with. But the relationship between person and border collie is just unreal. And my rescue I got 3 months ago, he's fast becoming my everything #2. He's so different than Jude, but so uniquely border collie. Uniquely border collie. Yup. I wouldn't call them dogs honestly. They are a species of their own.
  13. Chicken is fine if he can handle it, it's not an age thing. As for rushing the food container, google 'cookie zen/ it's your choice' game
  14. Hi and welcome to the boards! I'm also in BC (okanagans), where abound are you from? Always nice to meet dog people around my own age, maybe ill see you at an agility trial in a couple years! Are you also in forestry too? Hehehe! I love being able to bring by pups out to work with me. My 11 month old whom I got from a rescue at 8 months who was really soft and timid, has really flourished in confidence and athletic skill since h started coming Have fun with the sweet pup!
  15. I know there's a ton of different places out there with courses but I'm interested in sharing some specific things (nested, speed to technical to speed lines, specific skills, games.. Etc). Just special things you come across that you liked. Ill start , I really like this snooker course below, I think I'll give it a try this afternoon. 3 reds with 3 weaves, discrimination from 3-4, possible tunnel entrance issue, making sure you cue 2-3 and 4-5, well so you don't get a refusal (novice dogs). http://agilitynerd.com/blog/agility/courses/misc/voelker-masters-snooker-bronze-adch.html
  16. My dogs least favourite thing is the hair dryer and straightener. The forthcoming activities almost never involves them. Oh and the once in a blue moon pantyhose and fancy dress.... Now there's a very depressing sight to them.
  17. Look up 'reinforcement schedule' , 50/50 is more powerful. Loving other people is awesome, both mine do (one is a cuddler/lover, the other one is a wiggly bum crazy thang). It's soooo much better than having to worry about a dog that may bite, from aggression or fearfulness. Consider yourself lucky! Lots of self control work! Start with puppy zen game and progress from there. Also control unleashed (the puppy book, better format) And btw, super cute pup... Those ears, omg
  18. Google the "collar grab game" for the leash issue. You ll have to start way at the beginning and go slow. Pick up a clicker, google the crap out of it and do it. Who cares what you teach, that doesn't matter build te solid relationship with the pups brain, the body will follow and the commands will just slide into place naturally. Teach "puppy zen/it's your choice" my foundation behaviour. It would also apply to teach a puppy that commands are a good thing because there is no pressure to them. All commands are the puppy's choice. They have the choice to obey or not, which they will as you will show them they get surprises for their actions. It's not "sit"-obey-get a treat, but instead (from the dogs PoV 'when I sit I get a treat... I have the power to make things happen' You don't ask for a sit At the door it's a learned automatic. Get yourself some private lessons with a positive trainer. In this case i would say this pup need positive only. No negatives. Just ignoring the bad rewarding the good. When you get a handle on thins enroll Ina. Fun dog sport. Agility foundation works wonders on a less confident dog and really let's them shine. Look up control unleash and do some mat work with him. Also the 'give me a break' game.
  19. http://dogascopilot.wordpress.com/2013/07/03/fear-is-an-emotion-not-a-behavior/ Very well respected lady in the dog world.
  20. My bcs hike nearly 7 hours with me in the mountains about 3-5 days a week, yet they can hapilly chill out when need be (like two weeks ago I was sick for a whole week, they only were let outside to pee, they actually were more interested in sleeping near me and keeping me co.pany, Exercise doesn't create a monster either, its all about the training. My dogs know this.... when i chill you chill, sure go ahead and ask me if I feel like being active everyone couple hours, but if i say no, then its time to go back to lying down or occupying yourselves. Build the partnership with your highly intelligent and active BC, they are extremely moldable into various different lifestyles. Its not about the exercise but the companionship they crave. (But remember to teach them to be happy being alone too, learnt that the hard way, now I make sure they have days where theydont see me much a few times a month). Also on the topic, I got no red flags from the OP at all. If someone doesn't want a rescue that is their choice. And working breeders need to be supported too! :-)
  21. Great that people cared, and also sometimes scary. I'm folwoing some conversations about this topic on some lists, or Facebook, and so many people are in the smash the window first ask questions/ call police later camp. Its scary, like someone said idiots ruining it for the rest of us. Unfortunately common sense just doesn't exist anymore. I really like the idea of a giant thermometer, doesn't even have to be digital so people can see the temperature, maybe a sign that points out they have water and pointing out the thermometer location. Those alert things are cool too.
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