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terrecar

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Everything posted by terrecar

  1. This just makes so much sense. Very well explained! Thank you.
  2. This is what I got. When I tried to save the file via the website, it came up as a blank .txt file. I got around that but the format is sequential and too long to post here. ABC 468959 Inbreeding: F = 25.00% 25.00% through ABC 343222 (1 path) ETA: If I had paid better attention, I’d have seen your pup’s COI was 25% without plugging in the numbers, since he is from a father-daughter breeding. Oh well.
  3. Clear your browser’s cache before trying my suggestion. When I tried it a second time I got a blank page, but after clearing my cache it worked.
  4. Try this: Type www.bullypedigrees.com into your browser. Click on “COI CALCULATOR” on the black menu strip at the top.
  5. If I had it to do over again, I’d either look into an option that spares the ovaries, or I’d wait until maturity. We recently started treating my eight year old dog, Hannah, for spay incontinence. Incurin (estriol) has worked (and is mild compared to DES), but I’d rather not have to give hormones to my dog.
  6. I don’t have any recommendations as far as specific training techniques—perhaps others will—but there are three websites that I would recommend to a new dog owner: Patricia McConnell’s https://www.patriciamcconnell.com/theotherendoftheleash/ Kathy Kawalec’s https://cognitivedogtraining.com/blog/ Eileen Anderson’s https://eileenanddogs.com/about/
  7. I’m glad this pup found a home. Congrats and good luck with him!
  8. The first thing I would do if my friend found a pup would be to make sure the pup is, in fact, abandoned rather than lost. That includes filing a “found” report at the local shelter; scouring lost & found advertisements, Facebook pages and websites; and placing a “found” post making it clear that respondents must provide proof of ownership (the last part is important). There are often local laws that provide rules that govern found pets. I wouldn’t want to just leave him at a shelter either. Other than that, I think D’Elle and others have offered great advice.
  9. Love this! Great Christmas card material.
  10. Love these puppy-to-adult videos. I wish I would have done this with my Hannah. Merlin looks like he is having a lot of fun!
  11. This. The breeder will have had more time to watch the pups develop and is in a better position to describe tendencies. If given a choice, I usually go for middle of the road as well. I listen to the breeder’s evaluation then go with my gut, armed with that information. Of course, there are no guarantees.
  12. Update on Embrace coverage of “dental illness” from their website:
  13. Here is another article written in lay language for us non-science(y) types: https://thesciencedog.wordpress.com/2018/12/06/mind-your-peas-and-potatoes/
  14. Thanks Hooper2. I’ve been keeping an eye on that list as well, because although my Border Collie is clear, my Aussie/Border Collie mix has not been tested yet. Since I believe Aussies have a higher documented incidence of having the MDR1 gene, I was going to have her tested via Wisdom Panel, but the test at the link you provided offers a lower price. Jami74: Moxidectin is on that list, but I’m not suggesting anything can be concluded from that, especially since: ”Higher doses (generally 10-20 times higher than the heartworm prevention dose) have been documented to cause neurological toxicity in dogs with the MDR1 mutation.” And of course you’re using it as a topical.
  15. Maybe you can give me some tips on my cat. I brought a kitten home from the shelter a couple of years ago. She’s lovely, but I haven’t been brave enough to get a tree since.
  16. I wasn’t at all offended by GL’s first paragraph. I’ll leave it at that. I do hope the OP gets something beneficial out of the discussion re: progression of training though. I am personally a linear thinker, so I do best by learning tasks in that manner. Not everyone has the same learning style [ETA: which granted, might be a limitation.] However, that isn’t the entire reason I find shedding intimidating. It has more to do with a fear that the sheep, once separated, will bolt and things will fall apart. Flora & Molly, don’t let my own anxiety about shedding rub off on you. As long as you are working with a competent trainer, you are fine. As Smalahunder suggested, sometimes a task that seems daunting turns out not to be so when you actually do it. That one just happens to be daunting in my own mind. As far as the barking is concerned, you have gotten some good advice. Enjoy the journey! ETA2: Perhaps one of the pieces of the shedding puzzle I am missing is that it should probably be attempted after the sheep are settled.
  17. Lupus is something worth exploring with your vet, as it can also cause lameness. I would follow Nancy’s excellent recommendation to look into TBDs as well. I’d at the very least start with a SNAP test for Heartworm/Lyme/Ehrlichia. I had a dog SNAP-test positive for Lyme who never had any symptoms. So, I went with a Quant C6 test to check levels, as Lyme can do damage to the kidneys [ETA: If left untreated].
  18. That has to be frustrating. Hopefully others will chime in with some ideas.
  19. You might ask your vet if it might just be pano, although I’ve only known that to occur in German Shepherds. It can supposedly occur in any breed. That would not be bad news since it is self-limiting. Here’s some info. https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/panosteitis-in-dogs
  20. This is such a bizarre comment in a thread about taking a dog to sheep with a trainer, that one has to wonder at the point of it— particularly in light of the fact that it follows a rabbit-trail away from the OP’s specific circumstances. I get and appreciate your comment , Smalahundur. Shedding (though not penning) seems daunting to me, but that is likely because I’m viewing it in the abstract before attempting it. Regarding the quote above, I would like to point out one thing (and this is for fellow novices). The verifiably competent folks on these boards speak often of the importance of finding a good trainer/mentor and, if possible, attending sheepdog trials. For those who don’t yet have sheep, these settings are probably the best way to network and learn; and I dare say they have been the way forward for many on this board. However, books can be very helpful, especially for an issue that you might not be able to think through while on a training field where things can move so fast. Your trainer, not being a mind reader, might not pick up on the origin of your problem. Mr. Fogt’s book addresses a problem I had with beginning to drive; my dog would flank around toward the sheep’s heads-even while I thought I was positioned correctly-because I was not effectively communicating what I wanted. My dog was not wrong to anticipate a walk-about. I was inept at getting her to switch gears. Down time reflecting on a lesson and reading about the specific task can be helpful for the next time you attempt it. Clinics and trials are especially helpful. I wish I had the opportunity to attend more, because they are usually held at farms (and I haven’t seen an idealized and artificial one yet) where there will be people who can steer you in the right direction. For example, I found someone at a clinic who trials at the open level; someone who offers training and would be better suited for me to continue learning Border Collie handling. The trainer I use is suitable for my level and helpful in providing an opportunity to learn sheep (including a much valued opportunity to be present at Ivermectin dosing and hoof trimming). However, she has Aussies. I never would have known about the Border Collie person had I not attended a clinic. To the OP: I am glad you found someone to help you. I hope you learn a lot and have a wonderful time doing so!
  21. @Smalahundur Watching Aled Owen demonstrate the shed with a student and her dog recently was interesting. Seconds before the sheep parted like the Red Sea without either group bolting, I tried hard to perceive the movements that would produce that result. The only question I could think of was, “What just happened?” I kept my mouth shut. ETA: So you’re right. I am not going to get it until I try it (under tutelage, of course). To the OP, I have not taken my Hannah (Aussie/Border Collie mix) to livestock, but we did live on some property with goats for awhile. While she started out barking at them (they were in a large pen), she quickly lost that response once she became more accustomed to them. This might also happen with Molly, although the situation is different.
  22. Vergil Holland’s book is great. I also really like the way “Lessons From a Stockdog: A Training Guide” by Bruce Fogt is organized. The diagrams illustrating tasks are a great help as well. Mr. Fogt’s book is divided into chapters such as “Balance”, “The Outrun” and even “Learning to Walk Backwards” for clumsy newbies like me. The explanations under the chapter headings are clear and accompanied by real life examples and scenarios. This is not a thick book; it is succinct (with elaborations) and well written. The book takes you from beginning training and on to all the things I couldn’t begin to try (shedding!) at this point. I highly recommend it!
  23. Dogs are very attuned to body language, arguably more so than verbal cues. If you pair the “get in” with a body language cue, you can work up to getting your dog to heel straight while remaining silent. For example, I paired a “sit straight” with a look behind my shoulder, then later phased out the verbal cue. So, eventually, when my dog came in crooked, all I had to do is look over my left shoulder and she would straighten her sit at heel. If you practice this often enough you can do it quickly and somewhat surreptitiously. Even better, after awhile my dog would anticipate the body cue and finish straight automatically.
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