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arf2184

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Everything posted by arf2184

  1. Not sure if this was posted elsewhere, but this study has been updated. Thanks to Suburu, they were able to do more testing and it looks like there are some good options now. I think Meg might be getting a Sleepypod Clickit harness soon. It looks like it may actually give the dog a better chance in the event of an accident, in addition to keeping the dog from flying into the people in the car. http://centerforpetsafety.org/research/2013-harness-study-results/
  2. Nice job! Its awesome when things start working out after much hard work.
  3. Bear loves fruits and veggies. Meg will eat them to keep Bear from having them but you can tell she doesn't really like them and is trying hard not to spit it out as she chews. If he's not around she's much more selective, taking only carrots, green beans, and squash. Bear's nose is counter height and he will snatch whatever he wants when no one is looking. Meg has much better manners and I don't think she's ever taken anything that wasn't offered to her first.
  4. Its not so much the size of your yard that matters. What's more important is the time you and your family can commit to spending with the dog. Are you willing to walk the dog, take the dog to the park, take classes, spend time training at home, take the dog to the beach, let the dog come with you when you run errands, etc? You don't have to do all of this, but you do have to find the time to keep your dog stimulated, physically and mentally, however you may do that. Most border collies would not be content with a few minutes playtime in the yard each day. Think about what things you want to do with your new dog. Make sure you think carefully about what you really need from a dog and talk in depth with the rescuers before you bring a dog home. Obviously you need a dog that is good with kids and won't eat or harass the chickens. Think about other things that are also deal-breakers for you and make sure you bring home the right dog for your family. Also ask about a return policy. Many rescues now have a 1-4 week trial period in which you can return the dog for a full refund if it isn't working out. However, understand that it will likely take longer than that time period for the dog to settle in and feel like a part of the family. Meg was around 2 yrs old when I adopted her. Among my requirements in a new dog was that she do well with cats and not try to eat my chinchillas. I also did not want an excessive barker or an escape artist. The rescuer I adopted from was great at making sure I brought home the right dog for our household. We talked for over an hour on the phone about two dogs. My first choice would probably not have worked out because she focused too much on small animals. Meg was just right though. She is also great around our cockatiel and ignores chickens, horses and other large livestock. She's thinks turkeys are scary. Kids make her nervous, especially little boys. Border Collies are not usually the first choice of dog for people with small children, but can do well with older kids. As long as you are willing to put in the work and teach both the dog and kids how to behave, it can be great. Your children are at a nice age where they can help train the dog. I don't know if they have had a dog before, but make sure you talk to them and make sure that they are up to the task as well. Not sure what age you were thinking of for the new dog, but that is something to consider too. Puppies are a lot of work and rescue pups can be a bit of a mystery on how they'll turn out (in appearance, size, personality, etc). With an adult dog you know more of what you're getting, but there may be some bad habits or 'baggage' to work through. Adult dogs may already have some training (an already house trained dog is a great thing!). You may be able to find a dog with great house manners that has been around kids. Search for the right dog for your family. Again, talk to the rescue/foster home. They can be a great help in making sure you bring home the right dog. Don't set yourself on a Border Collie just for the sake of having a Border Collie. They are great dogs as all of us here know, but if its not the right dog for your household at this time, it can be disastrous for both you and the dog. They are smart dogs that often require more mental stimulation and consistent physical exercise than other breeds. If the new dog gets lots of attention and activity the first few months, but then not so much once the 'newness' wears off, he/she is likely to get into to trouble looking for things to do. Make sure that you and your family have room in your life for many years to come for an active, intelligent dog.
  5. Mushers Secret helps with the ice balls as does trimming the long fur on the feet.
  6. I've been feeding raw for about 12 years. Started because I had an old dog that refused every kibble I tried...she lost quite a bit of weight. Then she stopped losing and started feeling better, but still wasn't eating her kibble. Finally one night I caught her outside with a quail in her mouth. Smart girl had found the food she wanted and was starting to do well on it, but at that stage she wasn't fast enough to catch enough quail. So this prompted a ton of research before I finally decided to switch all three dogs to a raw diet. That old dog lived 6 more years, smelled much better, and shed less once she was on a raw diet (and getting enough to eat). At first it was very time consuming to feed raw. I was worried about messing up and the dogs paying for my ignorance, so I measured everything carefully, blended veggies to go with the meat, and so on. But after a while I had 'duh' moment and it occurred to me that I don't carefully measure my own food and neither do wild animals and we do just fine. Now (and for the past 11 years or so) I just toss them a hunk of meat/bone every night and call it good. Some nights they get a large hunk. Some nights they get a small hunk. Every so often they get offal in addition to or instead of their meat hunk. I feed as much variety in types of meats as I can, with beef, pork, and turkey being most common. For several years I had access to some grass fed sheep and loved it. I try to avoid cheap chicken. It tends to make the dogs gassy (not to mention its likely raised in awful conditions). They also eat fruits and veggies, plain yogurt, table scraps, leftovers, etc. at various times. They enjoy eating chinchilla pellets (that the chins toss out of their cages) and grass. I spend about as much time on their diet as I do my own (that is to say...not much). Variety is more important than anything I think. It works for us...the vet is always impressed with my dogs' health and teeth. I don't trust the dog food companies, even the good ones....that is partly why I feed raw. Another is simply the fact that its a processed food, often with a lot if ingredients. I try to avoid these things in my own diet so why would I feed it to my dogs as their primary staple? Cost wise... I spend less than I would if I fed good quality dog food, but I have access to free/cheap scraps from time to time. I do have a freezer that is mostly for the dog's meat...I think I paid $200 for it and it didn't add much to the electricity bill. For years, I just used the little freezer in the kitchen though. Dog food has really not been around that long. It was created for convenience in the 1800s and only really caught on after World War II. Prior to that, dogs were fed meat and scraps and whatever they could scrounge on their own. A centuries old diet worked just fine then...I see no reason not to feed it now.
  7. We don't walk much in the winter time. We don't walk in the dark (for a number of reasons). Right now I leave for work in the dark and come home in the dark, so no walk most days. We don't walk when the roads are icy or when the plows are still doing their job in our neighborhood (not enough room to safely get out of their way in some areas). Things to do in the Winter: Mainly you just need something to do. Physical exercise is not as important as mental stimulation. Bored dogs are more apt to get into trouble looking for things to do. Mental exercise is often more tiring. #1 Treadmill This is our first winter with a treadmill and Meg has been making good use of it. She does 15-20 minutes at a time. She loves it. Anytime a human is using the treadmill, she'll try to hop on with us which doesn't work so well so usually the human just steps off and she takes over (its more fun watching her exercise anyway...lol). #2 Hide-n-Seek Games Meg and Bear both love 'nose work'. I have a collection of boxes that I set all over the living room. I send the dogs out of the room, put a treat in one box, and then one dog takes a turn sniffing it out. Meg is a pro. Bear takes a bit longer, but he has fun. Meg also plays another version of hide-n-seek. Same idea as the nose work game, only I take a toy, hide it somewhere in the living room (under couch cushion, on the stairs, on the piano, on a shelf, etc), and she has to find it. #3 Indoor Fetch We do play indoor fetch with tennis balls, soft toys, and soft Frisbee. I think whether or not this is a good idea depends a lot on your dog. Meg will settle when told. While she does ask us to throw things when she feels like playing, she doesn't usually get too pushy or sad puppy eyed. If we set the toy on the floor and ignore her, she goes off to play fetch by herself (yep, she throws her own toys and catches them or goes and gets them). #4 Training/Shaping We do free shaping with the clicker for fun. Meg loves trying to figure things out and its good practice for me too on my timing. #5 Car Rides/Trips to the Store/Visiting Friends Meg loves to simply be in the car. Wintertime is great for the car because I don't have to worry about heat or leaving her in the car while I run in the store. She goes into 'stealth mode' when alone in the car. Before I'm even a few steps away from the car she is curled up in the front seat so you can't even tell she there. Not all dogs enjoy being in the car like Meg obviously, but its a change of scenery that she enjoys. Bear on the other hand, gets anxious, honks the horn, and drools all over when left alone in the car. Whenever possible, I bring Meg in stores with me. Feed stores, pet stores, farm stores, and hardware stores all usually allow well behaved dogs in. If you're not sure ask (or don't...the worst that'll happen is they tell you no dogs allowed). The local hardware store is great. They have a resident cat that Meg likes to try to make friends with (cat just glares at her). My only problem with stores is that Meg has started shopping the lower shelves. She's talked me into buying her a couple toys she doesn't need and some treats. If you have friends who don't mind if you bring your dog to their house, a change of scenery could be nice. If needed, you can use the opportunity to work on manners or tricks in a different setting. It might be a bit stressful for a timid dog at first, but it can help build confidence and teach them to settle in various situations. #6 Fun Classes Some of the local trainers around here offer fun classes. We're are taking a "Play" class next month with a favorite trainer. Its about playing with your dog without toys or treats. Mainly, its just something to do that is indoors. There's also a snow shoeing with your dog class being offered by one of the local training groups. Unfortunately its on a day that I work, but it sounds fun. We also take agility classes, but the barn is not heated so winter classes are often rescheduled if it gets really cold.
  8. Meg sometimes pees in her sleep. The vet diagnosed it as spay incontinence (after tests came back good). That is not the case with your boy obviously, but here is what I have found helps with Meg. Low Sodium - If she gets too much sodium, she pretty much always pees in her sleep. I monitor treats, table scraps, etc. to prevent this. No water starting about an hour before bed. Potty break immediately before I go to sleep. Proin - this is a prescription med that helps with incontinence. Meg was on it for a while. Now we can manage without it with only rare accidents. The vet said she may likely have to go back on it when she's older.
  9. Meg uses the treadmill. She usually goes 15-20 minutes at 3-4 mph, part of that with the incline. She'd go more if I'd let her but I need a turn too. Treats are great motivation, but if he's comfortable with the treadmill, I'd try increasing the speed a bit to see if that holds his attention (just a faster walk). It could be he doesn't stay on because he's bored. Meg does not do under 2.5 mph...its too slow for her. Also watch his gait on the treadmill. There are some speeds that do not feel natural to Meg and her movement gets 'off'...but if we speed up or slow down a bit, she does fine. AND...make sure you are letting him know when you change the speed or stop the treadmill so he has an idea of whats coming. With Meg, I just say "Let's go faster" or "Easy". Really, you just need to get his attention so he knows a change is coming. I also use these cues in Rally and Agility so there's an added bonus of practicing them at a time when I control the speed.
  10. That's what I was thinking. I'm no expert but they look good to me. I wish my big boy had hips like that!
  11. I don't see a happy confident dog in your videos. Meg was two years old when I brought her home and it took her almost a full year before she really seemed like she felt like she belonged here. Not that she wasn't happy, she just was not confident and didn't quite know where she fit in (like she was in a foreign country). Your dog looks like that....like he isn't sure of you or what he's doing. He clearly is not playing...Frisbee is a game that is supposed to be fun. Right now he does not see it that way and you may be teaching him the wrong thing (that Frisbee is not fun, its a chore). Not that you can't train, but you really need to back off on the pressure and slow it down. He'll get there, you just have to not screw him up in the mean time. What are you clicking in the video? Are you clicking the pick up? The return? Interest in the Frisbee? I didn't see him perk up at the sound of a click so you may want to back up and make sure both you and he understand 'clicker' training. He does seem food motivated so that makes things easier. I would not use the disc that is in your video for dog Frisbee. Check out the Hyperflite discs, or get a soft cloth/rubber disc. Hyperflite discs are used in most competitions and are designed for dogs. (Meg prefers the SofFlite ones.) Many other discs are too hard and can be uncomfortable in the dogs mouth. Meg started out with cloth discs when learning to catch...they don't hurt if they hit you in the face. I would try to get him interested in soft toys and work on having him catch those while you play with him (no training, just play). Also work on catching treats. Dogs are not born knowing how to catch. It takes practice. If you can't catch a treat tossed to you from 2-3 feet away, you probably can't catch a Frisbee either. I saw him trying to catch treats in the video but he didn't seem too successful. Just needs practice to improve his coordination, that's all. Take it slow! Keep it fun for BOTH of you. It may be that you need to stop Frisbee for now until he has more confidence built up. Work on reinforcing the basics (sit, down, stay, come) and maybe teach a few simple tricks (shake, wave, touch a target) to help build confidence. Again, keep training sessions fun and short. Some dogs will shut down if you put too much pressure on them, even if its just encouragement. I think what you described with him laying down and not coming is the start of that. Try to never get to that point.
  12. My dogs only wear collars when we go somewhere. When out walking off leash, I like to have noisy dangling tags on them so I can hear them. They stay close, but I like being able to hear Bear behind me. He's old and sometime falls behind. At home, they're naked. They don't charge out the door or take off and both have a good recall. I stopped leaving collars on when one of my young dogs hung herself on the fence...fortunately I found her in time. Also, Bear can't stand to wear a collar any longer than necessary and will scratch at it until he hurts himself, even a light weight collar. When we're out and about he has distractions and I'm with him so its not much of an issue (though I do have to tell him to stop scratching from time to time). When camping his collar has to come off at night. Fortunately he has no desire to run off. He doesn't like to be too far from me. Meg could probably wear a collar all the time, but she likes to jump and I worry about her getting caught on the fence.
  13. Yeah, you should do great! You'll probably really like the comp. discs. You may need to keep a towel handy...they can get slippery with slobber. Just keep in mind while throwing in Distance/Accuracy competitions, there is strategy to it as well as accurate throws/catches. The farther you throw, the more distance your dog has to cover for both the catch and return. Unless you have a dog with a super fast return, you are probably better off aiming for Zones 2 and 3 and getting in more throws, than going long for the end zone and having less (but higher scoring) throws.
  14. Yes and no. The idea is the same (you throw, dog anticipates where the disc will go and catches it). Most dogs transition fairly easy. Meg would only play with fabric discs at first and took a while to transition to plastic. If your dog hasn't played with a hard disc you may have to back up a bit so she/he knows what it is and how to pick it up if/when it lands on the ground. Throwing a competition disc (in the direction, with the speed and height you're aiming for) is going to take some practice. Its a bit more challenging (at least for me) to throw a competition disc than a fabric disc. Fabric discs tend to be a bit more forgiving and will straighten out some on their own in the air (well, the ones we play with do anyhow). Competition discs require more of a precise throw, but will go further with more accuracy once you get the hang of it. Practice without the dog (or with the dog staying at your feet until the disc lands)...a bad throw could lead to injury.
  15. I'm more afraid of owners than dogs. The dogs I can read body language...the owners are unpredictable. You do what you can, avoid what you can, and hope for the best. While at the lake one day, we were approached by two off leash dogs. This was fine. I saw them coming and so did my two dogs. Meg was off-leash too (which is good...on-leash is when we have issues; off leash we do not) and Bear was on leash (because he's rude so he stays on leash). The dogs were approaching cautiously, but not with any sign of aggression and tails were wagging. Suddenly their owner spots us and starts frantically calling her dogs in a panicked manner. I told her it was ok, they were fine, but she ignored me and continued to freak out. Only then did her dogs show any sign of 'aggression'. Of course they did not come to her but continued to head for my dogs, now worried about their mom, one with hackles raised. So I moved between them and my dogs...hackles-dog turned around and headed back to her still-yelling-mom. The other slipped behind me and headed for Bear. At this point, Bear was also stressed from frantic-yelling-lady so of course he growled at the approaching dog (whose tail was wagging again). Dad had Bear's leash and just pulled him back and took a step in between the dog and Bear. The dog left and all was fine. Frantic lady continued to yell at her loose dog though as we walked away. It would have been much better if the other owner had kept her mouth shut, or if she's so worried, kept her dogs on leash in the first place. (Meg stayed behind me through all this...she has learned to let me handle things.) Staying relaxed is just as important as leashing your dog. If your tense, your dog may become tense and that is where trouble arises. Took me too long to not only learn, but apply that and even longer to teach it to the rest of the family, but really, it works in most situations. Stay calm and be alert.
  16. Most competitions (at least the ones I've been to) are SkyHoundz competitions: http://skyhoundz.com/ "At all Skyhoundz Championships, Skyhoundz DiscDogathon Championships, and Skyhoundz Xtreme Distance Championships competitors may, in their sole discretion, elect to use Hyperflite discs of any size or weight or any solid plastic disc that was designed specifically for canine use. Discs from different manufacturers and of different sizes and weights may also be mixed and matched at the discretion of each competitor." At every Local Championship I've been to, they give you a Frisbee to use, if you'd like. I like the Hyperflite discs. I have several of the SofFlite discs, a Midnight Sun (glow in the dark), and several of the Standard Competitions discs.
  17. Nice job! Renoir looks great and old Boots looked like he was having fun! Will you be in Deer Park for the Fall Frolic this year? I know what you mean about having trouble switching between dogs. In addition to Meg, I've been training two Papillons (not mine). All three are very different. Its making me a better handler but its a challenge. We have classes on Wednesday and I start with Meg who is the most advanced of the three and the most responsive to me (because she's mine and we work together a lot). However, she's inconsistent in her speed and the amount of focus she'll give me; sometimes I have to be the cheerleader, sometimes I have trouble keeping up. Its almost like running two dogs. For her, I have to make mental notes while walking the course...'This is what I'll do if she's slow today. This is what I'll do if she's fast." Then I have Tilly, who is close to being ready to start competitions. She is fast but not as experienced. I usually have to stay closer to her. She's not as focused on me and is happy to just run her own course at times. Then there's Tana, the most novice of the three. She is the fastest, has the most drive, and is the least forgiving of my mistakes. She wants to know exactly what is expected of her and will 'tell me off' if it isn't clear enough. Handling multiple dogs helps teach you to be ready for anything.
  18. I don't have any experience with Dasuquin specifically, but we used to give our old girl horse Glucosamine. She did better on the horse stuff. Bear and my Dad take horse MSM. If you check with the manufacturer you'll probably find that its pretty much all the same stuff, just packaged different for giving different doses (or flavored different). The Nutramax Labs website has some info. Looks like the horse version may have a bit more to it (also lists manganese and ascorbic acid), but still things that would benefit the dog as well as the horse. You'd just have to figure out the best dosage. http://www.nutramaxlabs.com/products-by-health-type/faqs (There's also coupons on the website.)
  19. Some great advice here. Another dog means more time, money, and commitment. Well worth it if you're prepared for it, but possibly much more stressful if the timing isn't right. I think spreading out ages is best. I've raised 3 puppies (litter mates) at once...NEVER AGAIN! At age 9 1/2, Bear was very lonely when his sister died so (for other reasons too) we got Meg at age 2. I didn't want a puppy at that time because I didn't want to mess with potty training or teething, and I didn't want to put too much stress on Bear. Meg was house trained with good manners when we brought her home, though she lacked confidence. Meg and Bear took to each other right off. They were a good match because Meg would back down anytime Bear gave the slightest hint of growl, lip curl, or just a hard look. He liked having her around, but had to establish boundaries with her those first few weeks. She was also good for him in that she made him be more active. She wanted to play and so did he sometimes. That meant he had to keep up with her. It worked out great at that time. Meg and Bear are now age 5 1/2 and 13 and I'm ready for another dog. Meg needs a dog pal that can keep up with her so she'll stop pestering Bear to play. He rarely has any interest in playing anymore, though she tries to encourage him often. She doesn't push him too much, but I am concerned that with another young dog it'll turn into both Meg and the new dog bugging old Bear. Winter is really hard on Bear so it won't be until spring at the earliest that I add a new dog. And I still have to convince one of the human household that another dog is a good idea (almost won her over). Meg has more training than any dog I've ever had. With Meg, I had to spend our first 2 years together focusing on building confidence and fixing issues.I don't regret one minute of it because its made me a much better trainer and I have a great sense of pride every time I see my now confident girl say hello to a strange dog or person. BUT I'd prefer to not have to do that much 'fixing' again with this next dog. I'm torn between a puppy or another young adult. I haven't had a puppy in 13 years and I'd really like a cute little baby to start fresh with. I'd love to raise a puppy using all that I've learned with Meg. At the same time though, I worry that a puppy would be too much for Bear to handle, and also you never know what a pup will grow up to be like. I think I'm leaning towards an older puppy (10-16 months). I suppose I'll just wait and see what dog/pup I find when the time comes.
  20. Meg does not like the bouncy in your face dogs either. It took her a while to learn not to panic or get overly defensive, especially while on leash. She doesn't like feeling like she has no escape from those crazy dogs (even when they are securely confined behind a fence 20 yards away). After many instances of me blocking dogs she learned that I would handle it and most often now she just automatically gets behind me when a dog she's not sure about is approaching. We're both much happier that way.
  21. Cute pup! At 12 weeks old, don't worry about agility training yet. Focus on the basics (sit, down, stay, house manners), making sure all social interactions are good ones and just having fun with your puppy. I would start foundation training at about 10 months of age. If you can find a class with a good trainer, its a great way to learn and socialize at the same time. You will learn a lot by watching others learn the same things and you can also learn from your classmates mistakes. Foundation training covers the basics of agility handling, cues, direction changes, sit-stay, body awareness, and developing teamwork. No equipment yet really. Jumping doesn't start until about 12 months...once growing is pretty much done. I would jump at full height until at least 18 months. Still, my dog Meg jump Skilled/Preferred (4 inches lower than the jump height she measures into). You will need to register your dog with whichever organization you plan to enter events. There are several: AKC, NADAC, ASCA, USDAA, and others. I wouldn't worry about it until you are ready to compete. Most don't allow dog under 18 months in competition, so you have some time to explore what organizations are active in your area and decide which to one(s) to register with. Each one has slightly different rules. AKC is among the most expensive when it comes to event entry fees. If you choose to compete in AKC events, you would register her under their Companion Animal program. Each organization also has different games. Check out their websites, go watch a few events, and see which one(s) you like the best. Also, at events, pay attention to the competitors. If your area is anything like here, you'll likely be seeing the same people at many events. Choose the organization with the friendliest competitors and you'll have more fun. NADAC, ASCA, and AKC have the most events in my area. AKC events are typically bigger, entries fill quickly, and they usually involve a lot of wait time between runs. ASCA and NADAC are smaller, friendlier and cheaper. ASCA rules and equipment are very close to AKC rules. NADAC is a bit different, with some equipment you don't see elsewhere, like hoops and barrels; NADAC does not have the tire, chute, or teeter. I prefer NADAC because Meg often thinks jumps are boring. NADAC has tunnelers, Touch-n-Go, and hoopers (all games without jumps) and we have more fun with those. Plus most of the local NADAC competitors are laid back and friendly. The AKC trials tend to be a bit more stressful, with some competitors taking things way to seriously (not that there aren't plenty of friendly folks too).
  22. She does call off easily and as soon as I see her I call her back. However, this seems to be her new way of greeting other dogs from a distance. On one hand, its much better than the barking panicked reaction she sometimes used to have. On the other, not all other dogs are going to like being stared at. The down has me a bit confused. It could be a play invitation, though in the past she usually turns her rear to other dogs and tries to get them to play chase. I don't *think* she's trying to intimidate...that's not her personality (though she's changing all the time so perhaps I should say it hasn't been her personality up to this point). I am most concerned about how other dogs might react and how to get her to go back to not doing this at all. At this point, most dogs have ignored her stare (they've all been well behaved dogs though). Only one so far has returned her stare, clearly trying to intimidate her. I called Meg to me and both dogs went on peacefully ignoring each other. However I'm not always around and when she's out with my Dad or other family members who are not as good at reading her (or other dogs) this has potential to end badly. So I think I would like to put a stop to it, but at the same time, I don't want to set her back thinking she shouldn't try to play with other dogs if that is what she's doing. Thus far simply calling her off each time is not discouraging the behavior overall. She'll stop at that moment, but she is doing it more often and in different situations. If she is trying to get other dogs to play, it has not worked. Perhaps its because I keep calling her away, or perhaps the other dogs are intimidated by her stare, or maybe they just aren't interested, but she has not had any come play with her following a 'down and stare'. **confused**
  23. Background - Meg (5 years old) was a rescue that was dog reactive (fearful, not aggressive) in certain situations, especially on leash. She was also shy of people. She's improved tremendously over the past three years and has pretty much taken a 180. Now she wants to say hello to all people (and get them to throw a toy for her). I've worked hard to make all her dog interactions good ones. Now she wants to say hi to some dogs...bouncy or out of control dogs she ignores and makes sure to keep a good distance from but does not react too. She doesn't play with other dogs unless she really gets to know them...mostly she just wants to sniff and be done with them, which is perfect. New Concern - The past couple of weeks she's started a new behavior with regards to other dogs. She's done it off leash about 4 or 5 times. It started at the beach. She's off leash when we go swimming and this is at a beach where the other dogs come and go (often off leash too). The beach is not crowded and big enough to where most people/dogs just keep their distance. Meg's new behavior has potential to cause problems though. She moves towards a dog (not running, but moving fast) until she's maybe 20-30 feet away and then lies down and stares...that intense Border Collie stare that makes other dogs uncomfortable. Meg has a very good recall. At this point I've just been calling her back to me when she starts staring. She has called off quickly each time, but she seems to be downing and staring more often. She also did it twice today while out on a walk (on leash). As we approached another dog coming the opposite direction, she downed and stared. Both times it happened to be dogs she's met several times, so I just called her to heel position and let her off leash to go say hi (she does much better off leash when greeting dogs and the other dogs were already off leash too). She approached and sniffed the dogs without anymore staring and all was well. Staring is not how I want her to greet other dogs, but I'm not sure how to put a stop to it. I don't want her to stare at the wrong dog and get attacked and set her back or worse. Any suggestions?
  24. I had a nice conversation at work last week. An older mentally disable gentleman was excited because he was going home 'to see his dogs' that day. I asked him what kind they were and he told me he had a "Backwoods" and a "Girl" and described their personalities to me. I think that was a far greater response than telling me their breed or how they look. I learned more about them and him that way. I told him I had two dogs at home too. He asked me what kind so I told him I had a Bear and a Meg. He smiled and asked if my Bear and Meg chased cats. I said no, they like cats. He smiled again and said his dogs liked to chase them. Best conversation I had all week. Anyone can have a lab or a border collie, but there's only one Backwoods, Girl, Bear, Meg.
  25. Thank you! Right side of the field...got it! I will definitely be taking pictures. I'm very excited. It looks like there will be plenty dog/animal things for the kids to do too. Thanks for the elevation reminder. I will bring plenty of water.
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