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SecretBC

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Everything posted by SecretBC

  1. Strategically, you would use a Ketschker when you need the dog to make a tight wrap and you need to get ahead of them on course.
  2. Your example in number one is what is referred to as a "blended front cross." Your second example is a Ketschker. Steve over at AgilityNerd is semi-obsessed with them in recent months. You can find some really good information on his site. http://agilitynerd.com/blog/index.hl?find=ketschker&plugin=find&path=&type=all That's a link to all of his Ketschker articles and most have video that go with them.
  3. There have been a few times now that we've stayed at hotels with elevators. Why you'd put dogs on the top floor of a hotel is beyond me..... All three of mine have taken to them with little fanfare. And believe me, ushering three dogs into the elevator is far easier than getting three dogs of differing sizes to navigate the stairs at the same speed.... lol The most fun I ever had was when Secret was a puppy and had horrible diarrhea before we left for a trial several hours away. Yeah.... Do you know how fun it is to have a "mostly" potty trained puppy with diarrhea on the fourth floor of a hotel? So awesome. I am happy to report that we did manage to make it outside every time...
  4. Forgot to mention -- If the dog has ongoing back issues, friend should look into Back on Track coats. Secret has a super long, sensitive back and her BoT coat has helped a lot and we've cut back on chiro visits. She's also doing better jumping higher and has been fine at 22" now.
  5. I'm hearing a lot of excuses - I understand that this is what your friend relates to you. I'm not entirely sure what you plan to get out of this thread. Are you planning to show it to your friend? I have a sensitive dog. I don't worry about bars with Kaiser, but if I flinch or look at him wrong he goes off course. When I walk courses for Kaiser, I spend the whole time figuring out how to stay out of his space bubble and follow his "rules." Not every course allows his rules to be followed, but the quirky little guy and I manage to Q in over 50% of our runs these days (a massive improvement!). I learned what he needs and how to run him. He's nothing like my other two and if I ran him like I run them I'm sure we'd never Q! You have to do what is in the best interest of the dog. I am totally baffled as to why the dog can't jump lower. It couldn't do a higher jump height due to structure/technique - what does that have to do with going down? The handler needs more training to work on their timing. The dog could probably benefit from jump drills (Salo/Mecklenberg). Ultimately, the handler has to stop with the excuses. If it were my friend, I guarantee I wouldn't continue to listen to them whine.
  6. He's looking great!! I love how happy he always looks. I wish Secret would bounce around with joy at the start line -- she just stands there and stares at the course! Lighten up, girl. lol I love happy, bouncy boys.
  7. I think it's falling back to the attitude of the handler and possibly the relationship the person has with their dog. The OP states that the handler will not run the dog in Performance -- which leads me to believe it's an ego issue and I'm going to guess we won't convince that person to try NADAC or CPE any time soon. The plain and simple truth is that 99% of the time the NQ's are our fault. If the NQ's are off courses, the handler is late. If the NQ's are contact calls or weave faults, that's a training issue. If the NQ's are dropped bars, it's either a timing issue for the handler OR maybe the dog just can't handle the height. It would be helpful to see video of the pair, because until then all we can do is speculate. The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting a different result. What is this handler doing DIFFERENTLY to expect to see different results = Q's? You can't just continue on the same path and expect change. The handler needs to seek out different instruction for a different opinion or bite the bullet and change jump heights/venues to see if there is a change in the dog. There is no reason to throw in the towel until all options have been pursued. The other option is to get another dog. People do it all the time. Maybe that would take some of the pressure off the current dog and it might magically start to Q. Hey, that's what happened with my little dog. Kaiser hated agility and had the lowest Q rate ever (like 5% if we were lucky). I adopted Secret and said I would only continue to torture Kaiser until Secret was ready to take his place -- about three months before her agility debut, Kaiser started to really take off and shine in agility. I'm glad I didn't give up on him because he's a blast to run. Ultimately, this handler obviously needs to change something. Until that happens, there's really no point in bitching about it.
  8. I regularly feed TOTW as part of my rotation and my dogs all do well on it -- as do the foster puppies who come through and also eat it. I haven't ever had a problem with a bad bag. TOTW is considered an "All Life Stages" diet and is appropriate for dogs of any age. I stopped feeding puppy food a long time ago and instead stick with high quality grain free diets for all of my dogs.
  9. If it's a behavior the dog knows to offer (such as an "auto down") you wait it out. If it's taking too long or it's obvious the dog doesn't know what you want from it, you reset (have the dog move away) and try again. In this case it's obvious that the dog knows how to lay down, I think she was just unsure of how/where to place her body on the small space of the chair. If you have trained via shaping, she would have kept offering something until she got rewarded.
  10. I think you are doing a really lovely job with her. What a cutie pants she is. The absolute only thing I even noticed in the video is that you repeated her cue to "lay" on the chair several times. Ideally you want to just say it once and wait for her to do it. I didn't hear you do it any other time, though, so it doesn't appear to be a bad habit for you. Since she's such a quick learner, you should start keeping a list of fun tricks to teach her! I love teaching puppies, they are so fun. Keep doing video updates -- not only do we get to enjoy watching them, but they are loads of fun to look back on when they aren't puppies anymore.
  11. I found this to be a very curious comment -- Simply for the reason that it's more or less the opposite with my dogs. Going for a walk around the neighborhood does NOTHING to appease/tire out my dogs. If we go for a leashed walk it's more because I need the exercise -- Then we come home and I have to throw balls or frisbees for them in the yard to get the real energy out of them. Heck, the other day we went on a 4 mile walk where they were off leash (meaning they probably put in a couple more miles) -- After an hour of running around on the trail, Secret was still bouncing off the walls when we got home. She just needs that release that comes with fetching, I guess. What is the scenario with the five mile bike ride each morning? Is there a reason why you could not do the bike ride again in the afternoon if the dog needs the outlet? It doesn't sound like you guys have an issue with other dogs/fixation while biking -- why is that? Location? Time of day? Extra exertion? I will say, when I take my dogs out on roller blades they are far less inclined to look at other dogs because of the speed at which we are going.
  12. Part of the problem may be the tension you are feeling regarding the possibility of one of these dogs entering your dog's space and creating a fight. I don't blame you, I'd be tense as well. If I were you, I would start to carry a deterrent on your person in case you encounter such a scenario. They make several sprays for these situations -- DirectStop is one brand off-hand. It's a citronella spray that you spray in the oncoming dog's face to keep them away from you. It's kinder than say, pepper spray. The dog's owner will still pitch a fit if they see you spraying something at their dog, but I figure it's just part of life's lesson of keeping your dogs contained. I would look into using a halti or other brand of head halter, perhaps in addition to his normal collar. With a halti, you can physically bring his nose/attention to you and off the oncoming dog. I disengage my dogs when they first hint at that behavior. I'm not typically a huge fan of Cesar, but that little tap on the flank that he does really does snap them out of it -- at least it works for my dog that fixates. Note, I'm not "kicking my dog" as many people like to say Cesar does -- I'm bumping her flank lightly with my heel to get her to stop her bad behavior and look at me. Border collies are sensitive, it doesn't take much. The key is not to let it escalate to the extreme level. It is very hard to get them to come back down at that point. I'd definitely recommend finding a very good trainer or behaviorist. I'm not so sure that medications are needed in this case, though. In the case of an off leash dog, I'd probably turn around and go the other way. If you are meeting an oncoming dog, I'd step off as far as possible and ask my dog to sit and focus on me. It's all in the timing, though -- Because if you wait too long to ask for this behavior you'll have a very hard time getting the focus you need. You need to be paying attention and start asking for the attention behaviors before your dog even notices the oncoming dog(s).
  13. I don't think there is ever a day that goes by where I am not mortified by members of the human race. I just don't understand how there can be so many STUPID people in the world. What a flipping idiot.
  14. Wow, that is nothing compared to what has come back out of my dogs (from both ends). Scary that it was causing such problems. I've gotten to the point where I severely monitor anything they are chewing --- of course, that doesn't stop them from finding things on their own, which is always the scary part. This is what Secret threw up not all that long after I got her, sometime around 16-20 weeks old: The pen is there for size reference. Pretty sure that's the biggest thing that's come out of her to date. Sending good healing thoughts for Kit!!
  15. I have a 6' wooden privacy fence, but you can still see through the gaps where the boards meet. That's all the dogs need to say, "Game on!" to fence fighting. My neighbors to the south are just god awful. They have two dogs that live outside 24/7 in a tiny pen attached to their garage. They randomly let them out for a bit most days and I swear to god they encourage them to fence fight to burn off energy.... The way I combated this was to hang 4' tall black landscape plastic the entire length of my fence on their side. I stapled it to my wooden fence -- you could probably figure out something with zip ties on a wire fence. What this did was completely block them from making eye contact with each other, which seemed to be the biggest factor. There was a short period of time where hearing each other would still set them off, but I was able to get my little fence fighter (Kaiser) away much easier. Unable to see into my yard anymore, their dog stopped stalking my fence line. Eventually he figured out that there were two yappy terriers behind the fence at the back of their property, so he completely moved all of his bad habits to that fence and left mine alone. I was able to remove the plastic last year and we have not had a re-occurrence. Fence fighting is the worst -- I have no patience for it, especially since my back yard is also used for training and it was a horrible distraction.
  16. Pictures would be helpful, but I'm guessing he is fine. For a growing puppy in particular, I'd much rather they be a bit underweight than a bit overweight. It's much healthier in the long run. Is he a rather large boy? My bc girl is on the bigger side (47 pounds) and she gets two cups per day (also TOTW at the moment). She is "sport fit." She's also built more like a greyhound than a border collie....
  17. I use Power Boost -- http://www.cleanrun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=2429&ParentCat=326 My dogs love it and drink it right down when offered. I do have to be careful about how much I give -- If I give them too much, they get runny stool. Not fun at agility trials (where I use it).
  18. Ha!! Absolutely a dog can get injured from those things. Especially if their idiot owners use them on a Flexi leash where they can build up a good head of steam before getting snapped back when they hit the end. They certainly can serve their purpose, but when used the dog really should remain on a short lead the entire time so as to never be able to charge off and get snapped back. If more control is needed and Loki still can't wear a harness, look into purchasing a martingale collar and forming a "basket" with the leash. We do this at the shelter all the time -- lots of control, but there is no pressure on the shoulder. I tried to find an example online but failed. Basically the leash is attached to the collar. You hold the collar with the leash attachment at the top and then wrap the leash around the dog's girth and then up through the loop in the martingale collar. Instant no-pull harness with zero pressure on the shoulders. Works a treat.
  19. Most, if not all, trial premiums contain the following language: Weather counts as, "act of God." We have put trials on hold due to tornado warnings in the past. One local CPE trial got called midday due to blizzard conditions and I believe something like 13 people actually got stranded at the trial site. I know a few dogs who have been blown off contacts from the wind. I have ran in rain coming down so hard that they paused the trial until it passed because the judge couldn't see the dog. I lost one tent to the wind. We once had a late April snow storm and the fields were covered in snow. Up north there was a trial where everyone had to pitch in and shovel the entire ring before they could start. It happens. But it's also a reason why I find myself becoming a huge weather weenie. We have so many choices for trials in the upper Midwest now that I can pretty much plan my entire trial schedule to trial indoors. I like running outdoors and my dogs do better outdoors than indoors because we train on grass --- But I just find it SO HARD to write out a check for $300 and then get stuck running in the rain or dealing with 100 degrees and high humidity. At least the indoor trials I know we'll be running in comfort.
  20. You can buy metal crate pans --- I've known several people who have had to do so after their dog eats the plastic ones.
  21. As depressing as the rescue world can be at times, it's stories like this that keep us going! Our shelter recently placed a 12 year old terrier mix with a large, inoperable tumor on her side. A biopsy confirmed that it was cancerous and the veterinarian gave her a year, max -- although under six months was a likely possibility. Because of the nature of this sweet little dog, we pushed forward to pursue placement. It was made a little more difficult when Happy showed us she was not willing to share her space with other pets at the end of her life, so we had to find a home where she'd be the only pet. We'd actually had SEVERAL wonderful adopters apply, but none of the dog meets had gone well. It took a few weeks and the help of the local media, but we did eventually place Happy in a wonderful home. It was an older couple who'd recently lost their dog to cancer. They felt that they were robbed of their time with their previous pet, so they wanted to spend that time spoiling Happy. What wonderful people. It's things like that which counteract the feelings I felt last night when some jackass surrendered his two severely underweight 4 & 5 year old Labradors (seriously -- they were both a 1 on the body condition scale).
  22. The floor was my first thought, but I would assume the shelter has seen her outside and she must display this same behavior. We had a dog come into our shelter that actually did this with both the front AND hind limbs --- and they were completely independent of each other, so she was an odd little duck when she moved. Add her puppy energy to the mix and on a slippery floor she was just a disaster. The vet told us she wasn't in any pain. We didn't have her seen by a specialist and left that up to her adopters. She did get adopted and then returned due to house training issues (they were gone way too many hours in a day) -- Then adopted again by a very special family. Oddly enough, several months after her adoption we had a dog come to one of our play parties with the same neurological condition. The gait was exactly the same -- front & back. That dog was a few years old and having no problem. I surely wouldn't acquire a dog like this for a future in performance or as a working dog -- but as a loving family pet? No problem.
  23. Aw heck, now his tail looks downright short. It's hard to find a picture that shows it well, but Secret was blessed with the tail genes in her family. It has a light curl at the tip, otherwise it would drag on the ground. Her brother's poor tail ends above his hocks -- Poor fella, it stands out even more since he's a smoothie. lol Long tails make for good streamers when you color them. As for the original question, I concur that the suggestion that you double their weight at 16 weeks tends to work out quite well.
  24. I don't know if they have "spring break" sessions, but I know some people who have gone to Camp Gone to the Dogs and say it's the best experience ever. http://camp-gone-tothe-dogs.com/html/home.html Definitely fun for humans and canines alike.
  25. With all of the issues described, you might get away with the first flight out there --- but getting him home may be nearly impossible if he decides he didn't care for the experience. The trip does not sound in his best interest. I would have a hard time boarding my dogs for two weeks, but it does sound like a better alternative to flying in this case. If it's a six hour flight, I'm guessing driving would be fairly prohibitive and take up the majority of your trip. It could be a fun adventure, though, if you are set on keeping him with you.
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