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Everything posted by Mariji

  1. I would very much like to see that dog in first picture of the "Australian Show Border Collie" work on a typical farm in Australia. I mean working all day everyday, not just trialling or training occassionally. I am not doubting it's natural ability but I am pretty sure with that much coat even if it was heat tolerant there is only so much physiologically it could handle. I am not taking either side, if anything I am more for working dogs than show dogs, but you can argue the fact of whether it can work or not till your blue in the face because its a show dog but that will not achieve anything. I do not agree with the AKC just as I do not follow religion, but I try to not push my opinion onto other people or back them into a corner. I just completely disagree when it comes to health issues as I said before, that is just despicable. Not everyone has property or stock or even the funds to train and trial, we all do our best, but it the same kind of unsaid standard I have seen between sports performance dogs and "working" dogs. Personally I think the issue is more with backyard breeding breeds than with the AKC. Unfortunately the AKC is just more media savvy and manages to get those breed standards out to the public to a point that it is the accepted norm. I don't mean any offense there is just not much we can do about it. To tell the truth I very rarely ever see a show standard border collie, most I have seen in QLD, NSW are working type border collies. I am very proud of my beautiful girls, 2 out of the 3 are not bred to work but their body type is more the working type than show but the instinct is there and had I pursued that I am sure we could have done just fine. I am in awe watching dogs do what they were originally bred to do but that avenue is not available so I being a responsible dog owner keep them mentally stable by doing the next best thing, dog sports. I just re-read that and it sounded like a personal bashing toward you, so sorry it is a generaliaztion not so much a reply to your statement in particular. And Tess is beautiful! I love the tiny white blaze and those beautiful big brown eyes!
  2. FANTASTIC! You have made a great start. Just keep on top of the obsession behaviours and remember to with socialization that he doesn't have to ever "like" the dogs he just has to learn he won't die if they are close. He has to learn not to obsess on how close they are and learn he can check where they are and what they are doing but he still needs to be calm and listen to you. Maybe stay at home for a couple of weeks and mentally stimulate him at home then try going out every couple of days just up the street or around a block where you know there isn't any dogs. Introduce the dogs slowly and at a great distance. The Halti just allowed you to re focus him and it may help calm him slightly, he just seems to get so overwhelmed he can no longer control himself. I wouldn't let him make any noise at home so he knows generally noise is unacceptable, that might help you get rid of the noise he makes when stressed. Let us know how you go!
  3. I have just spent the past hour reading that thread and all the posts. I am horrified to say the least at the ignorance of the "show dog" people. To me it is almost like racism. You shouldn't be completely against one or the other but be able to accept different views. I think all the bickering goes on because there seems to be an idea that someone will decide where the breed is going in the future. To me all that matters is that there will be Borders that can do their original job and do it well regardless of what they look like and that show dogs are not bred just for looks with ignorance to the detriment effect to their health. You should NEVER breed a dog that isn't going o be healthy and to breed it looks over health in ANY breed is wrong. All breeds evolve for what they are needed and where they are needed, they will never be able to remain the same as they were originally even if "show dogs" never existed. I am accepting of show breeders only until someone over looks a health issue because it is a beautiful dog. There is not much we can do for where the breed is going but let it take it's course. It happens in every breed and the variety is as varied of each persons opinion as to what is beautiful. What makes me laugh is how the Australian "show" dog would be able to perform in its original job with all that coat. Do they have any idea how freakin' hot it was yesterday! LOL I feel sorry for the poor baby, I vote to shave it so it doesn't die of heat exhaustion just from walking up the stairs!
  4. I know a few people that disapprove of dogs doing more than one sport. But I also know dogs that compete successfully in agility, herding, frisbee and Rally-O all at the same time. Obviously there is alot more work in doing that many sports but it can be done. Obviously certain traits in each sport could detract from another but if you work out everything carefully you shouldn't have any problems. As for fixing that problem of being owner dependent in agility just do alot of distance and handling so she should only need to check in on where to go and not become a "velcro" dog. I would do the sheep herding first though and just do foundation agility at home. That way you know more about trialling and what behaviours are needed so you train your agility accordingly. Good luck! I am so unbelievably envious, I would LOVE to trial, it was what bought me to agility. Everytime there was a comp on here I would be at the trial ring not the agility. But I cannot afford the lessons so we do agility instead. One day......
  5. Alright socializing any dog can be very difficult especially when they are intent on making you deaf. First get a Halti or soft muzzle. This was you are not just protecting yourself but someone elses dog it will also help curb that barking. I started with my first dog (who was a kelpie/pitbull or staffy mix, extremely stocky and strong and dog aggressive) with just walking around the outside of the park. She did get a little better but I found the aggression remained because the fence was seperating them. So I would start with maybe a couple of dogs you know that won't even look at him but rather ignore him. Him on a Halti or soft muzzle walk around them (no fence in between) and reward for calm behaviour. You may have to start a distance away, if the dog approaches I just held the lead twice as tight and down a little bit, so the head is pointing downwards slightly, if he goes to bite the dog quickly turn his head away. If he just sniffs and is being good then turn and walk away and reward him. Then go back and repeat. If he is scared he has to know he can leave so don't make him stay. If it is excitement the Halti will help a bit. Of course this take repitition but I got to the point with my dog I could let her play with other dogs just watch her with dominant dogs. As for them protecting each other I would walk them seperately until Bodhi has some doggy manners. You don't want to ruin what socialization Maggie has. For potty training I would just start from a puppy. Make sure you take him out every so often especially after a drink or food. If he soils inside tell him no and remove him to outside. He will pick it up. Unfortunately the OCD behaviours are from the complete lack of stimulation and you may find they are built into his character now, so just stop them from happening. If he starts to obsess snap him out of it and get his attention. Management is your best option for those behaviours. You may find a difference when he settles but I do doubt that. I think general training sessions at home would be great for him, that way you can go out by yourselves and practice his new behaviours while at the park. It gives him something to think about, but he may settle down after a routine of him getting exercised regularly. Just ask for controlled behaviour occassionally to get his attention and calm him down. I would be excited too if I had never been exercised! Take it in small steps, I would probably work on his over stimulation outside before doing his dog issues. You can't teach him to be social if he is overwhelmed from his environment. Good Luck! He sounds like he has fantastic drive, take it as a positive thing! He is so lucky to have a new home he just needs time. I am currently doing this with our foster border collie. Except she is terrified, but at a recent agility trial I managed to get her tail up and get her to focus and sit for me ( the only behaviours she knows, like you I had to start with toilet training) and she even jumped up at someone for a cuddle! I was sooooo proud of her!!! And we have only had her for a month so it will happen all in good time.
  6. Thanks everyone! I can't stop watching that video in the link, I just marvel at how far we have come. My girl had no drive over jumps and wouldn't touch a seesaw if her life depended on it. After that video I would have guessed she was born to do it. All our hard work building drive, confidence and fixing her sniffing every time she hits the ground has really paid off and I love seeing how happy she is and how much effort she put in! All the frustration was definitely worth it to see my little lady work so well with me. She's really such a resilient girl and even through all the mistakes I made being my first dog I trained properly she comes out the other end with a smile on her face.
  7. The past week me and Myla have had some awesome progress with our agility training. She is now 21 months and 2 weeks ago had her first competition in which we had a Combined Elementary and Combined Starters Jumping Tests. She did fantastic for her first competition and we are looking forward to our 2nd comp this weekend where we will have our first Agility Test runs Yippeee! On Sunday we were chosen to do some filming for a show here called Better Homes and Gardens. The crew were fantastic and Miles was a superstar. She didn't even second guess how close the camera man was and performed flawlessly. Below is the link to a video I made of our day. We had fantastic compliments even from Dr. Harry himself and got to have photos taken. All in all it was a experience I would definitely repeat. Last night we were at our 2nd night of Intermediate Training and at the end I was approached by the Club president ( I thought I was in trouble ) she said that they would like if I would join the Advanced class next tuesday as she thinks we are more than ready. From what I gather you need to have your AAD title and apply to the Board to be moved to Advanced. I will be training with world class handlers......I am so nervous but I definitely took it as a compliment and am excited by our chance to learn so much from the fantastic handlers in the class. Not bad for being 19 and my Miles is my first dog and only a 21 month old puppy with one competition under her belt! I am soooo excited!
  8. I know this is silly but my partner doesn't really have a say. He will rattle on about why we can't get another but when the said dog (foster) turns up he suggests we just keep her instead. My puppy was a definite no no until we were at the airport to pick her up and because I drove back he held her in the car and wouldn't let go of her when we got her home. He does get angry when someone destroys something or steals a piece of chicken off his plate which never did happen again, but he loves them sometimes I swear more than I could. And it's beautiful to see him come home and the very first thing he has to do is put on his game face and say hello to all three of his babies before they have a heart attack because DADDYS HOME!!! They scream and howl until he pats each one individually and for a length of time before they are contented that he has said a sufficient hello and they will sit down somewhere. Dad is the boss and they know that what he says goes but they love him more than I've ever seen a dog love someone. As for vet trips which I am extremely lucky and only ever had one, he demanded he came and puppy got special treatment for weeks when all she did was drink pool water and bloated. But to answer the original question 3 dogs is easy, as someone said learning to wait your turn for a pat is the hardest part I think about owning multiple dogs. My girls all sleep in crates at night and spend the day together, I take each dog out individually for training, but they all come for competitions. I only have an Hyundai Excel but we still manage to fit me and my partner, 3 border collies, my 1 year old son, 2-3 dog crates and all our baby/dog equipment for the day. (Not to mention the sub/amp in the boot takes up more space than all three dogs combined.) So it can be done and with great rewards!
  9. I do the same but I really didn't want to go into explaining. I think I would teach both seperately and for the purpose of training a stay just reward the stay or reward the release when training just that. I was being lazy and couldn't be bothered to explain that not rewarding a release in my case dampened my release so I had to reward the release as well with my older girl but that hasn't happened in my puppy. I mean when teaching a stay you still reward the release so it is not lost but I quite often find that the release is more rewarding than the actual stay which defeats the purpose of trying to train the stay, especially in new handlers. So i reward the release with play (my dogs are more food oriented) and reward the stay with food. Sorry for not explaining, I am feeling extra ordinary today
  10. If you are teaching a stay I wouldn't reward for the release. The reward should be only for staying so there is more value in staying than releasing. Of course when she release maybe run a bit and say good girl excitedly and give her a pat, as you don't want her to start to ignore her release cue but I would reward with a treat only the stay. Sit and Down should mean don't move until I release you. With my oldest she understands this but I also have a "wait" command which means cease movement and wait, this way I don't care whether she is in a down, sit or stand as long as she stops instantly. My puppy only has the word "stop" which means lie down and don't move. I am slowly introducing a wait command to her as well, but once again for this word I don't require a certain stance just that she ceases movement. As for words my first dogs word is "OK!", I have had no problems with this as it is short and sharp. She doesn't release herself if I say the word in just conversation, she knows when it is directed at her. My puppy I wanted a different release cue incase I wanted to release one but not the other so her word if "Break!". Once again it is short and sharp. I do have a communal release word for when my dogs are both in a stay and I want to release them both which is "Lets Go!" if I can't be bothered to release each one seperately but that is the only time I use that word.
  11. My first dog I made a point of having no leash but since I have decided you should never let your dog off a leash if it will not come when called or perform other basic commands. My pup earned the right to be off leash at 5 months old when I was sure she would listen no matter the distraction. At this point she must remain on leash at the beach (as she can't control herself and doesn't listen) for now but is off leash all other places. A leash is a piece of protection equipment that will perhaps save your dogs life in moments of distraction, so I value them highly. But having 3 dogs I prefer walking off leash and I have always trained at home and at training off leash, once again when they earned the right too. My dogs all have bright coloured collars with name tags, microchip tag and rego tags. I am paranoid someone will let them out one night or take them. With their tags all on I have more chance of finding my babies. Their collars get taken off at night while they sleep or when they are inside but get put on when they go outside.
  12. This is a fantastic question! I see so many people come through classes whether it be puppy, obedience or agility and drop out because the trainer is trying to teach them how to teach the dog to do behaviours, when in the first place there is no working relationship. Any class is way too overwhelming for a dog that isn't used to all the commotion such as a agility/flyball or obedience dog and even then there needs to be a working relationship. Anyway, what I think is going wrong because behaviours are performed at home, is the level of distraction. Try taking him places other than class where there is a dog some distance away. Don't ask for the harder behaviors first ask for the easy ones such as a sit/hand touch. You need to build up the distraction slowly. If time is an issue, get to class before everyone else and ask for behaviours he previously couldn't perform. Then when class starts (using extra special rewards, favourite toy/steak pieces) work on the outside of the class as far away as you can without be excluded and give him rewards just for looking at you. Keep his interest in you, you should be more rewarding so you may have to up his reinforcement. He may look away if reinforcement isn't high enough. Of course its probably a distraction more so than reinforcement but long term just build up the distraction slowly. To get him through till the end of class, just stay away from high drive dogs and nearer the quiet, slow ones and keep the rate of reinforcement up with high value rewards. In between the hard stuff he is learning ask for easy behaviours for him to learn treats easily. Its hard when learning and you don't get much treats so break it up with behaviours he performs well. As for a stay you need to only reward him when he is looking at you. If he understands he is not allowed to move then it will be easier but first you need to make sure he completely understands what stay mean. I teach a down stay before I ever do sit stay, mainly because it takes longer to break a down than a sit and I can recognise that and have more time to correct them before they are gone. Don't be afraid to tell the instructor you are doing things different as long as you can sort of justify why, if the instructor won't let you do things different they are not worth spending the money on. They should be accepting of any methods in their class if its suits the dog and owner. Start with standing directly infront of him on a leash and reward for attention paid to you. You can use a clicker to play this game, he may look away but be patient until he looks back and c/t when he does. Remember high value rewards are needed for distraction training. Slowly increase distance with your foot always on a long leash as you may not be fast enough to catch him if he breaks the stay. That way you can reel him in like a fish and replace him if he takes off. But if he does take off you increased the distance too fast. Go back to a shorter distance and work on that. Make sure he gets the same if not more treats when you are further away than when you are standing right infront of him. And yes that means you have to walk all the way back, i often see new trainers rewarding their dogs heaps when they are close in but not so much further away so the dog learns it is not worth staying when the owner wont reward them as much.
  13. I have 3 Borders all up and not a single one barks. Not even if someone comes in the fence, there is absolutely NO barking in my house. To stop this as my dogs barked as puppies EVERYTIME they bark and i mean even if I was half way through a shower I would go outside, collect them calmly and bring them inside or into their crate. Since they want to be outside they see being inside as a time out. Now if my oldest does bark and it is extremely rare I will go outside to find her sitting on the ground with her head on the ground going "sorry mum! I just couldn't help myself" at which point she escorts herself back inside for a short time out. The key to this is to catch them everytime, even if it is just one bark. Them being allowed to bark once but not twice is too much for a young dog to comprehend. So I just say no barking at all. They are extremely good now and both bar my puppy who is learning but doing 100% better, never bark at all. I am not mean about it, I simply ask them to go to their crates if I catch them barking. They just figure out if they want to be outside they must be quiet. There will be a confusion period because Maya has always been allowed to bark but she will figure it out. As for barking when she wants something I would wait at the door till she shut up and let her out if it was urgent. If not then time out time! Saying this my oldest who is silent at home is extremely vocal at training and can tend to scream her way through contact obstacles and weaves. But she is such a sweetheart and can still concentrate I will let her have her little noisy moments. As long as it doesn't interfere with a command I am giving I am fine with that.
  14. Hahahaha You guys crack me up. I just get kelpie cross. I'm pretty sure kelpies arent fluffy!?
  15. You'll be fine. I pretty much learnt everything I know from DVD's books and the internet. I only attended classes when my dog was a year old to work on distractions, even now I do all my training (agility) at home. And we are doing fantastic! We had our first comp last weekend and had many compliments and we are being featured on t.v. amongst other people from our club and Myla is only 20 mo. Our club president even came and said she is looking great. Sometimes if you know what to do then I believe it is better.
  16. Ok, That makes more sense. If she is food motivated that makes things so much simpler. Once again you'll need something extra special but break her behaviors down to such tiny tiny steps its hard for her to fail. You need to set them up for success. If it is the frustration that is getting her do free shaping lessons. Where you just click anything she offers, that way she will learn not to shut down so quickly and offering anything may get her something. I have always been told if your dog isn't getting it you are moving WAY too fast. She will get frustrated and shut down because her reinforcment is scarce because she is not doing what you want her to do. I would definitely just start with the back up and dont up the ante so quickly. At first click for everything even close such as leaning back. Once she leans back 100% of the time (almost like that is her new trick) then wait for something other than leaning back. It may not be a step back she offers but rather a step sideways. Any step at first is something that should be rewarded. I think she may get discouraged easily because you may reward her less because the hard things take longer, which means she's not getting it right as often and that means less treats. You said she backs up when you walk into her, you could teach her that way if shaping is too much for her at this point. I taught my first that way. Click and reward for every treat and reward underneath her to help keep her head low. Maybe back her into a small book on the ground. Or back her down a corridor onto a book so she can't turn around. Its sort of like when you fix a fear of something you could use immersion (which isn't always the best idea) but it is almost if you force her and show her how fun it is she is more likely to choose it for herself. I try not to do that but I have before when we are really stuck and it has worked for me. If she doesn't like you handling her and gets nervous just treat her when you touch her or gently move her around so she gets used to it. But start in tiny steps. The book she backs onto may be only 1 cm off the ground but it is a start, just work on that for a week before you make it a little higher. Reward her before she touches the book with her back feet and maybe reward her in a way it pushes her slightly back onto the book. Sorry for repeating but break it down into such little increments she almost doesn't notice. You may be what we call "lumping" all the steps together and moving to fast which will cause her to shut down. You need to be able to recognise before she shuts down that she is going to and remove her straight away. I currently have shut down issues and have only just learnt when Myla gets something right thats it! Walk away and play before she shuts down.
  17. That's the idea. Just showing them that a lowered A Frame is the same as a board and then you could raise it up quite quickly, running her over even just one time before raising it. Once she's got the idea about the running contact then raising the height one link at a time will help her with adjusting her stride. A board on the ground has a different stride to a full height A Frame. Raising the Frame slowly lets her work out her stride so she doesn't go flying over the top and into the hoop. I think if you started with the A Frame lowered the picture may make a bit more sense than a Dogwalk, but I suppose it doesn't matter which way you start I just did the hard one first.
  18. It makes it hard if she is not particularly motivated by much. Maybe try food she hasn't had before, buy a steak (I wouldn't do this to often its expensive ) and try that or a meaty bone just to get her a little food motivated. That also makes it hard to teach her to tug if she doesn't like food. Try getting a tug with a ball on it. You can reward her with a ball by rolling it underneath her and once she's got it running to play. It may take a bit longer but it's a start. Get someking of ball you can put steak or something extra yummy in and when she gets it give her a food reward and play. It might help transfer that value from the ball to the food a bit. Maybe just work on building value for treats or other toys more easily dispensed before working on tricks. I am working on my youngests tug right now before I can reward certain agility behaviours. Maya will need to be rewarded with at least a couple of different things to make it easier when you get to more obstacle training. She should have some sort of prey drive still, wind her up and get her to play. It will take time but eventually you can get her to take or take treats. Maybe play a game she loves and she has to take the treat to get her ball which would be her reward for taking a treat. Train her to take treats, I know it sounds silly but it works. My puppy was the same when she was little and now she loves food and her fav soft toy. Just step back and work on getting something she loves that is easily dispensed as a reward before you maybe train behaviours. I sympathize your situation, it doesn't help make your training any fun when your reward types are so limited. And to me it seems your problem is more with rewards than actual training. Once you have a fantastic reward base you can train anything. Does that make any sense? When I think about it all your training problems would be solved if she had a easily dispensed reward she loved. Hope that helps.
  19. Just skimmed through the thread. HA! I thought i had it bad but most of the people that have questions regarding their dogs breed are classically marked or coloured borders and people still seem to be confused. At least my dogs kind of have an excuse to be asked what they are. They are both small 12 and 16 kgs medium coat (much shorter than "show" borders) and one is nearly solid black and the other nearly solid white. To me that makes sense not knowing the breed but a classically marked border? What are people thinking? I get kelpie cross alot and I often get TOLD not just an opinion that I musn't have done my research into their lines. I saw the parents they were DEFINITLY border collies. If you don't know what your talking about please don't offer your opinion as to whether my dog is what it is or not! Even at agility the other night people were asking what my oldest was when we were running.
  20. I would lower it so it is only a few cms off the ground. The dog has to learn to decel and not overshoot its mark. So raise it slowly and the dog will learn how to decel in time to down at the bottom. If you send the dog over a full height a frame the first time it will most likely end up dropping miles past the a frame because they are going so fast. There is a big difference between a board on the ground and an a frame. As for the dog walk it is slightly easier. Perhaps if you did the a frame first and raised its height slowly, by the time you got to the dog walk the angle is much less and would be a breeze for your dog to complete.
  21. I think if I was you and had that problem I would just work on an independent back up. Once you have that then you can get her to back up towards things. Mine will back up but start going sideways if they back into something instead of backing up onto it. I am teaching both a handstand and they wouldn't back onto the box. So after a bit I just put their back feet on the box. I know that's not shaping and its cutting corners but I rewarded them hugely a couple of times and they got the idea. Mine will not back straight up onto something usually but climb up front feet first, turn around and put their front feet on the ground. It took just alot of practice for them to be just moving their back feet until they got it right. I would just do tricks that involve back feet, like you said teaching her to lift her back feet is fantastic. Its is a hard one though because that is generally the last behaviour a dog would offer, most prefer to use their front end so it will take a while. Maybe teaching her to go backwards through your legs or anything you can think of to involve her back legs. Like the ball work see if you can get her to climb on it and click her when her front feet come off. Sort of like a 2o2o position on the ball even if you have to lure her to get her front feet on the ground and her bum still on the ball. If she has shaped before she should be fairly clicker savvy and work it out when you jackpot her. Just stick to tricks and behaviours that involve back feet only. It may be a bit stressful until you've built up a history if reinforcement for back end behaviours. But the back up is a good start. I shaped a back up with my puppy by when she was offering behaviours if she even leant back that earned a treat thrown between her front legs so she had to lean back or back up a bit to get it. Then only click for a back paw movement backwards and so on. After months of doing back up I have only gotten her to back up a few steps before she stops but then I haven't pushed for her to keep going but I am happy with it anyway. You really seem to need a high reinforcer. Any dog will work for something that is their absolute favourite. Once you have that then you can build a history of reinforcement which will put the value purely into working for you. A great idea I found is if she loves her dinner, sit down and do some behaviours for her dinner. This is how I built up the value of some of my oldest basic behaviours. My girls love their dinner so I dish it out in a bowl and sit down with them and use their dinner to teach them something new or build drive for what is already known. Because they are so hyped up for their dinner they put out excellent performances and its just their plain old biscuits.
  22. I'm still a little stumped. Like I said I am completely terrible at naming things. Took me till 2 weeks before my son was born to name him and even then its not quite right. There are some beautiful names, but she's so hard to name.... If i had got a puppy it would be definitly named by now but because she's an old soul it just needs to fit......Thanks everyone though, I have a list written out and as she blossoms and gains more confidence I am sure one of them will fit.
  23. That is just him being a typical obsessive Border. Especially because you got him as an older dog he probably has many obsessive qualities he has developed. He can't really control what he is doing so I would just remove him from the situation completely. Crate him, or put him in another room or yard. He is just so wound up by it that he can't calm down, I kind of explain it like their heads are buzzing. You can avoid them developing behaviours by stopping them the second you see them but he has probably been practicing this for years. My 7 month old started herding my older dog when we are training or when we are playing, so now she is put in a down somewhere away from us and is not allowed to display what would become extremely annoying. As for around our pool she runs around and follows us but when she gets to us she just licks us. She's curious as I bring her in with me too but its not obsessive, my other two though, they run and hide in fear I will pull them in. Anyway just remove him and do not allow him to do it as it just gets worse with time.
  24. In the morning I go into the animals bedroom (they share it with the rats) and open all the crate doors and stand there for a sec or two and release each dog one at a time (they have different release cues). So for a split second they are dead still waiting for that word, but the moment I release them they are like a wild pack of hounds. Of course I go straight outside as one is just a puppy and desperate to pee but they all leap around me like maniacs till I go inside again. I give it about 15 mins at the max for them all to have a drink and toilet until they start screaming around at top speed like combatting jet fighters, usually with something in their mouths. They do this for about 2 hours and by 9am they are good to come inside, where they all crash out and sleep for the next 3 hours. I have recently had to cut out the barking my 7 month old does whilst playing. Barking makes me livid mad and my older two don't bark at all, so we have gotten better with my pup. And she only occassionally barks whilst out running around like a mental. Slight mayhem
  25. I am currently doing the same with my 7 month old. Just teaching her the basic position. I shaped it, so when we are training I do not say anything I simply wait for her to offer me something. Offering the 2o2o position then builds value in itself because that is what earns her a jackpot. Make sure you use high valued reward especially because the contact is what so many people struggle with. It is something you should do ALOT before they ever start doing the whole obstacle. I did contacts on a board on the ground and then on the end of the obstacle for 4 months before my 20 month old ever went over the obstacle and now her contacts are bulletproof. I worked on them so much that it is her favourite thing to do. She was very unmotivated but we worked on them everyday and made it as fun as possible. It wasn't until she moved onto the full obstacle that she started to do it at warp speed. Now god forbid my instructor if they pull out an A-Frame at training for she will scream over it and keep screaming until she is released. Which of course not what you want but the drive to do the contact is what you want. That is just my fault for letting her scream. My puppy will wait in her 2o2o position until I give her a cookie. (Obviously if I wait too long she will offer something else) So I reward her for being in position and then throw a reset cookie further away and release her. (If i throw the cookie and don't say her release word she will run after the cookie anyway, because she doesn't know she has to wait just yet, so say it just as you throw the cookie, or before) If Maya has a release word she understands well, then this shouldn't be a problem. She should if it is shaped, wait in that position because she knows it will get her the reward. It should be hard for you to get her away from the board if it is reinforced enough or high enough. As for teaching them not to break the contact, that comes later with proofing. For now she just needs to fully understand she needs her back feet on the board and her front feet off it. I wish I knew where my tripod bit to attach my camera was and I would record my sessions with Echo as we are exactly where you are right now, so I can sympathize. I taught a release word through crate games, so for my pup waiting is always so exciting because she knows whatever she is released towards will be heaps of fun or extremely yummy. If she finds waiting boring, just reward her for waiting or not breaking a stay. Mix up how long she waits for, sometimes release her instantly sometimes wait a bit longer. Never wait for too long if it is demotivating, build up to that. My pup is a dog that is always on the go and runs for the sake of it, but has a fantastic wait because she knows it is so worth it. Teach her to wait to be fed, I do this and my pup is the first one to have her bowl infront of her but has to wait for me to dish out the other bowls before I give her a release. That may be a good way for raise the motivation if she loves her dinner. But crate games was the main one. Even if you don't use a crate just teach her for the release benefits you get out of it. When I go to let my dogs out of the crate in the morning she goes completely bonkers, thrashing around because she is so excited. But the second I open her crate door she goes dead still and narrows her eyes and quivers, quite hilarious too see, and the second she hears me say "break" she comes flooring out of that crate at 100kph. Just build waiting into your basic training, I think Echo is so good at waiting because the moment I got her all I did for 3 months was Stops (drop and wait) with some running built in as well of course. Go back and make sure Maya release word is concrete and teach her to wait for things like her dinner, or coming out of the crate or even just in the yard and always release to something that is so much fun. At first the waits will be only short like 1 sec and she may be unmotivated. But you need to build the motivation slowly as well. Once she figures out how much fun it is and it may take a while she will have a dead still wait with a flying release.
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