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  2. I don't ever mean to make you feel defensive. Part of my motivation is sharing what little I know, of course, but it also helps me to keep these things in mind for the day when I may be facing these challenges my own CKF dog. I agree that the ramen you had from the restaurant was probably a lot less salty than those packages. And I can imagine how frustrating it is when Cressa refuses to eat. I'm not looking forward to that. I've never heard of dribbling water into a dog's mouth to get her to swallow pills. That's quite ingenious! Kudos for even thinking of it!!
  3. I'm 3 months late, but I strongly recommend the book Agility Right From the Start. It goes over many foundation exercises in huge detail, and provides explanations that will make you a much better handler.
  4. This question really speaks to me because I'm in a similar situation. When we got our first dog two years ago, we did it "right" and got a rescue. After a long search, and failing to find any suitable dogs in shelters, we adopted a dog from an excellent breed-specific rescue. They did a great job and answered all of our questions, but we ended up with a dog with much more sever behavioral issues than we anticipated, including fear-aggression. After tons of training, she's made huge progress, and entirely stopped resource guarding and reactively barking at people. But she still has body handling issues and occasionally snaps at me for trying to take her leash or collar off. She'll tolerate my husband's hands near her head, but not anyone else's. The rescue was surprised to hear of her intense fear of people's hands, since she apparently did not show this with her foster parent. (Somehow, she is excellent with dogs, even though the rescue said she wouldn't be.) I want another dog, and I really don't want a second dog with behavioral issues -- what to do? I know most rescue dogs are not as difficult as mine, but still, almost all of the Border Collies, Border Collie mixes, Aussie mixes, and Kelpie mixes in rescue near us seem to be adults with behavioral issues. No surprise -- rescues come from bad breeders and usually not the best owners. And it's still a roll of the dice whether more issues pop up post-adoption, as happened with my dog. On top of all that, rescue is very competitive around here. My dog's foster parent rejected literally dozens of applications for my dog before approving ours. We are a sort of sports home, so rescuing a mystery mutt isn't appealing. So breeders are looking more and more tempting -- specifically a breeder with a history of producing dogs with good temperaments and who values socialization. I really like the idea in this thread of trying to buy a dog that washed out of herding. Do you all think a dog used to farm life would struggle in to a suburban environment? I.e. strange dogs walking by, screaming kids on bikes, the commotion of an agility event, house parties, etc.? How old are dogs typically when they are rehomed due to a lack of herding ability? I'd prefer to socialize a dog myself if possible, since after seeing the effects of poor socialization so starkly, I don't really trust anyone else to do it. But if I could spend a lot of time with the dog before buying it might be okay.
  5. I was slightly concern about the ramen bowl but figure since she hadnt eaten for a couple days it was no worst then can chicken noodle soup after being sick. It was a Japanese ramen bowl from a restaurant so couldn’t separate it out. The bone broth is low sodium, has some vitamin/mineral, and protein in it. I didn’t check the fish. I don’t normally feed her fish but thought the fats would be good for her. I only used 2 slices of bacon and that has been stretched over 2 days so wasn’t too concern about that sodium. I do appreciate your concern since it is easy to overlook like I did with the fish. I have tried butter to make it more “slippery “ but she still spits it out. Normally after 3 rounds the pill is smush. I do gently close her mouth and tip her head back. The only thing that seems to be more success is drizzling some water down her mouth after I toss the pill in.
  6. I'm so glad you're finding things she'll eat. One note of caution: my vet said it's very important to limit salt intake. Most ramen noodle flavor packages are extremely salty. Can you maybe look for a less salty version or not use the flavor packets? If she really likes it and isn't eating otherwise maybe you could make a separate portion for her w/out the packet? Same with most canned fish and bacon. I know there is canned fish available w/out added salt. Again, maybe have some around just for her. One of my dogs used to be like that with pills. I would swear she'd choke them back up even after she sometimes swallowed them. It can help to coat the pill with a little butter to help it go down (it also makes them harder for you to hold onto so it can take some practice). After getting the pill in hold her mouth shut with nose slightly elevated and rub her neck a little till the tip of her tongue comes out, indicating that she's swallowed. I read recently that lightly blowing on the nose (while holding her mouth shut) will make them swallow. If it's really a struggle, maybe get a pill plunger. They aren't very expensive and can help get the pill further down her throat. Following with a very yummy, most favorite treat if she'll take it (or giving the pill right before she eats) will help ensure the pill goes down. Tansy requires a daily pill and she's finally stopped being such a bitch about it, so there is hope. I wish we could just explain that we're not trying to torture them but are trying to help. <sigh>
  7. So this last week she started to snub food again and she was having some bloody stool for a couple days. I was able to get her to drink bone broth though. On Friday we ate some ramen bowl and Cressa beg for some. So she got some ramen broth, chicken, and noodles. Saturday she was eating bone broth with chicken. Today she ate some salmon with bone broth and also rice/egg whites/boil bacon/steamed chicken. She hasn’t had anymore bloody stools yet. Hate seeing her act old. But I am glad she started to get back to her spunky old self. Thank you for the suggestions. I thought I knew how to give pills but Cressa is pretty good regardless how far you toss it in at spitting it back out making me go rounds with her. Val and Parker I just hand them the pills and they greedily eat them. Cressa use to take them with cream cheese or butter.
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  9. It just might have been the asprin that killed your dog, asprin is not considered good for dogs and that seems a high dose, I understand that to late for your dog but maybe someone else can benefit they have specific medicines for dogs suffering pain of this type do not accept any over the counter human medicine to help this issue. Change the diet to low fat low protein slow down the growth rate which is the problem in the first place.
  10. 2015 just noticed to late for you but not to late for another reader
  11. It sounds like Panosteitis if it is they grow out of it, in the mean time put your dog on low protein low fat diet first dicuss this with your vet my GSD boy suffered badly from this I thought at first he was just a sook because he would bump his leg and scream and you had to physically console him, but he is fine now changed his diet has gone past the first critical stage in growth and he is a different dog, always sweet always happy but now he is like he was before Pano set in he jumps out of his skin rejoicing the day.
  12. Good points all GentleLake. With their weekly weigh-ins, it is unlikely that anyone is going to get too thin. We have decided to stick with two meals a day—King's breakfast and Pauper's supper as well as scaling back Le Bon's treats. My dogs have been a little spoiled. When we first got Blue, my wife was working and I was not. If I wasn't exercising alone, he and I were doing something together. Other than being the runt of a large litter from Welsh parents, he has had no trauma in his life until 6 week-old, 3-pound Bonnie moved in three years later. She was immediately in charge and he was traumatized for two to three months. By then, I was pretty busy and my wife was retired. While less athletically inclined than I, she lavished a ton of full-time love and attention on both of them. Scolding rolls right off both of their backs but, like your first, praise gets immediate, gratifying results.
  13. Just be careful that this doesn't come back to bite you in the butt. Dogs who self regulate are much fewer and further between than those who will happily turn down food because their bodies know when they've had enough. Giving Bonnie treats for what may be overeating could encourage her to eat too much and also become pudgy. With all the dogs I've had, I've only ever had one who wouldn't eat more than he needed to -- and you couldn't make him eat more than he wanted. My current 3 have all experienced food insecurity in their former lives. (Before entering shelters/rescues one was starving as a stray when he was picked up, one was obviously malnourished as a 6 month old pup and the last was confiscated for neglect/abuse from a hoarder.) No issues whatsoever with any of them turning down food. I agree that gradually reducing their current portions would be kinder than going to just one meal a day cold turkey. If you want to go to just one daily feeding, I'd recommend gradually making one of the meals smaller until it's just been phased out. You may have to increase the other somewhat to achieve the desired caloric intake. p.s. I also miss having a dog who values a word of praise to a food or toy reward. Only the first border collie I had (the one who wouldn't overeat) was like that. No interest whatsoever in food but tell him he was a good dog and he was over the moon!
  14. I don't think I could stop at 5 stars for this one. Although it's an older book and a lot of it's about training a working sheepdog I really like H. Glyn Jones' A Way of Life. I also enjoyed The Shepherds' Life by James Rebanks a lot too. More a story about his way of life shepherding than a training book.
  15. Thank you Urge to Herd. We don't use treats as training rewards. Praise seems to trump treats for that. What we do do however—and this seems perverse when I see it in print—is we use treats as a reward for eating. The big guy (who is going to eat every molecule every time anyway) gets a single, regular size Greenie or a Good n Fun "Wing" for dessert after each meal. Little Bonnie, who does not eat like a dog, gets as many as three treats for emptying her bowl. We have already agreed that this needs to come to one treat per meal. Very often Bonnie will leave some or all of her food and forgo her treat(s). I am the cook in this house. The only other human here is my wife who is also the dog chef. Bonnie gets bits and pieces of our snacks from time to time but Blue will not eat in her presence so he gets none of that. We don't snack much in general so even Bonnie is getting very little of that. Here is rough coated Bonnie from above:
  16. He looks a bit over to me, as well. As far as cutting back to one meal a day, I'd stick with 2 meals, and take maybe an eighth of a cup out of one. 1) You're likely to get dogs demanding to be fed both evening and morning if you cut one out. 2) Reducing by an eighth of a cup might be all you need. Do you use treats as training rewards? You can switch to kibble, slowly, and count that as part of their meals. You don't mention living with any other humans, a spouse, family member or roommate. If there is another human in the household, make sure that person(s) is not feeding the dog, unbeknownst to you. I had a room mate years and years ago who fixed himself popcorn several times a week as an evening snack. Since I was working evenings at the time, I had no idea he shared his snack with my dog, until she turned roly-poly. Neither of them was happy when that happy ritual came to an end. Ruth & Gibbs
  17. "Bones Would Rain From The Sky" by Suzanne Clothier. Gets 5 stars from me.
  18. September 4th, 5th and 6th 2020 Davidsonville, MD Contact- Debbie Collison at debbiecollison@verizon.net or (410) 353-0555 for more information and to sign up.
  19. There's no nice, easy formula for ideal weight based on height. There are too many other variables, such as bone (some dogs finer boned, some medium, others heavier boned) and muscle vs. fat (muscle weighs more than fat). And, of course, there are significant variations in border collies' sizes. Just looking at a dog (or seeing a photo) can be deceiving, too, depending on the dog's coat. You really have to put your hands on a dog for a good evaluation. A dog at good weight has ribs that can be felt easily without having to press, same with backbone and hip bones, and a waist tuck. None of these should be extreme. I don't understand the chart you posted, primarily because the date axis doesn't follow a linear progression. (Starts in 2020, then '18, back to '20, on to '19, then to '20 again?) Essentially, though, such a graph should show a fairly steady increase from birth weight to adult weight with only minor ups and downs once a dog's reached physical adulthood. For border collies that's well before 3 years of age. Most of their growth is achieved by a year to a year and a half old, with some slight gain till around 2, in my experience. If healthy they should remain pretty steady after that. What vets use is a body condition chart that's been posted here on the Boards several times and can also easily be found on the internet. It's easy enough for a lay person to follow, but I wonder if you've asked your vet about Blue's weight? (Many vets won't comment about a dog's weight unless specifically asked; they see way too many overweight dogs whose owners become very defensive or even combative when someone says something that can be seen as critical of their care.) The photo you posted of Blue looks to me like a dog who could stand to loose a few pounds.
  20. Thanks for your opinion. I wanted to believe he was just a muscle man but I know you are right. Not surprisingly, he loves to eat and will give you the foot if you are late with his victuals. He and his sister are currently being fed twice a day. I'm thinking of cutting that back to once for both of them. She is still thin but has cruised from 29 to 32 pounds since the beginning of this year. She is 22 months old. He cleans his bowl in an instant while she has to be persuaded to eat. What do you think? As for the weighing, I do human weight management work and am kind of a nut about that. I weigh them both every Sunday lately. If only I could get them to lay still for a DXA :). Again though, I have to agree with you ... feeling for ribs trumps weight on the scale.
  21. That is a good photo of Blue from above. I would agree that he is a little overweight, and cutting back on his food should be all that is needed. He does not seem dangerously overweight, in that he does have a slight waist, but he is a little blockier than is ideal. I tend to adjust my boys' diets constantly depending on how their body feels, as their metabolism seems to vary with the seasons etc. They pretty much get weighed when they go the vets, and that is all. I find that body score is so much more individually accurate than weight.
  22. Baby food (jars of meat) have been my go to fit ill dogs (or cats) for years. Often works when nothing else does. It’s what kept Pip going the last week of his life. J.
  23. After reading this, I am going to have to conclude that he is overweight. He has a waist but nothing like he used to have and his ribs are only evident when a modest pressure is applied. Nothing left to do but cut back his caloric intake.
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